Whales and sharks
01:25UTC 22-5-2013
Today we had the company of 2 Minke whales, a smaller whale seen around the world. At first we just saw their water fountain, but after a while they started flapping their tails and jumping half out of the water! It was amazing to see. Everybody was on deck, clapping and cheering! Just before that we had done a MOB exercise and while we were explaining how it was going to work, we saw a small fin, just 20meters beside the ship!
Today, due to lack off wind, we have not been sailing, we tried last night, but drifted backwards with the current. Yesterday during the day we had some good wind, but on the nose, so we tacked our way up. It was good practise for the cadets, steering, changing running backstays and some sheet handling.
Right now the vessels are close together, during the day we might throw anchor before entering Durban.
Log TECLA - Leaving East London, 20 May 2013
Leaving East London a little wiser
10:29UTC 20-05-2013
We have left East London behind us and are setting sail for Durban, although, there is not a lot of wind to sail with. We left under full sail, blowing horns and waving to the crowd on the shore. But now we are under engine and hope we will pick up a sea breeze somewhere during the day, or a nice land breeze like 2 days ago.
Our cadets presented us with their findings on East London. We told them the best presentation would win tshirts so there was a small competition going on. In the end we could not choose between, the better presentation and neatness or the more detailed information with funny facts, so they all won tshirts!
What we have learned from the presentations is that East London is actually the only river port on the South African coast. Commercial vessels that enter the port need to be self-servicing, so own cranes and a lot of Ro-Ro on the west bank of the river. And due to a lot of sand around her coastline, the harbour is constantly dredged to keep her depth at 10 meters. It is actually a very nice way to learn more about the harbours we visit!
Log TECLA - Along the South African Coast, 19 May 2013
Along the South African Coast
During the night of the 18th we sailed close to the shore, a land breeze started around 20:00 hours that kept us going at 6 to 7 knots, almost close hauled. After a day of flapping sails due to downwind courses and waves, it was nice to feel the ship heel over a bit and get moving again.
Cape of Good Hope is also known as the cape of storms and the South African coast is known for her high waves and strong south running current. The currents are known as the Agulhas and Benguela current. They run along the continental shell and when they are combined with stormy weather, they are said to be deadly. Not ideal for vessels trying to go North. But with some local knowledge and some current maps, we made our way North on the continental shell and every time we got to close to the edge, we gybed or tacked and got as close as possible to the mainland again. Sometimes this was only a width of 8 NM.
Lucky for us a big high pressure area has reached us, with stable weather and hardly any wind, so no storms, just calm seas, calm sailing and calm cadets!
The Cadets on board are doing great. No more seasickness and the steering and navigating is getting better every day! Today they are stretching their legs with an assignment on East London. They are exploring and learning more about the harbour and the traffic that goes through here. This afternoon they will present us with a 2 page written report in groups, curious to know what will come out of it!
Tomorrow morning we will leave East London.
Log TECLA - 10 knots and some showers, 17 May 2013
Hitting the 10 knots and some showers
17-05-2013 01:00 UTC
Today was the first whole day sailing, and it was beautiful! We met up with the Europa and Oosterschelde near Knysna for some pictures under full sail. The afternoon was spend on deck with a workshop on sailing - what courses, what wind direction and what sail handling with what wind. In the Meanwhile we headed down wind along the coast with 7 knots until this night when some clouds started forming and we hit the 10 knots just before the mainsail was lowered to reef it. Now we are sailing at 7 to 8 knots, closing in on Port Elizabeth, but still over 400 miles of Durban.
Log TECLA - Sea cadets on board, 16 May 2013
Sea cadets on the Tecla
16-5-2013 00:37 UTC
We have left Cape Town with 12 cadets, one teacher, one camera man, one photographer and one reporter. We left with a loud bang and horns blowing, Oosterschelde almost under full sail and Tecla and the Europa setting sail. Once we were out of the harbour with all sails set, it seemed there was not enough wind to sail, so we used the engine for the first night. About half of the voyage crew on board got sick the first day, but the second day was better. We sailed during the morning, only to have the wind die out again! In the afternoon the cadets worked on deck, polishing coper, sanding down and oiling the pinrails and splicing mooring lines. And now... Flat ocean, with stars reflecting.
We have rounded our first cape! Cape of Good Hope. We passed it while the sun was setting, which gave us an amazing view of the rough Cape of Storms. Gladly for us we had no storm!
Log BARK EUROPA - Good evening from the ship, 15 May 2013
Good Evening from the Bark Europa
15-05-2013 10:00
We made it round the Cape of Good Hope, having had the most idyllic weather for the crossing into the India Ocean from the Atlantic. Some Trainees mentioned it was probably the most calm crossing of the Cape of Storms in all maritime history. As always there are a few Trainees who experienced Sea Sickness during the first day or two of sailing but hopefully this will pass shortly.
During the set off from the V & A Waterfront in Cape Town, we were greeted by a salute of cannon fire in which the Oosterschedle responded with its own cannon in salute. The three Dutch Ships sailed out into the bay and rounded Green Point, looking back on Cape Town we saw the Stadium by Signal Hill, Lion’s Head and the stunning Table Mountain, one of the world’s most iconic backdrops.
We followed the coast down to Cape Point and its famous lighthouse, which was made all the more superb by the sunset. For many of the trainees the night watch was a new experience made all the more magical with the barks of some local seals (Cape Fur Seals) who had come to inspect the ship when it past Gansbaai, and the early morning visit of a pod of dolphins which numbered in about 20 or more. All these marine animals were visible due to the phorsesence in the water, a green glow lighting up the gloom in spectacular fashion.
Now to brag about the food, my god it’s amazing what a small kitchen can churn out for the Crew and Trainees. Having said that I can smell dinner now so with that I bid you good night.
Josh
Log TECLA - Last night in Cape Town, 14 May 2013
Last night in Cape Town
May 14, 2013
We have had our last night in Cape Town, for this visit! Most of our time here was spend on maintenance of the ship. Jan flew in (who Gijs, Sam and me had not seen for 6 months!) to help us out during our docking period, pulling it off without him would have been impossible. But yesterday we had to say goodbye again, we are setting sail with our 4 permanent crew and 16 trainees, to Durban, and Jan flew home to Jannette and the three dogs.
During our stay in Cape Town we have held 2 open ships, we met a lot of very kind and interesting people and we had about 150 cadets from the local sailing schools and the maritime academy visit us. We have had amazingly good weather! During our 12 day visit, we have only had 2 clouded and 1 rainy day. Most of the time we have had sun and over 20 degrees in the sun! And this they call WINTER!
Our plan to go to Durban is a new plan, arisen with the question and possibility of training the 16 cadets we have on board now. By not leaving South Africa they can join us. So if you are in Durban around 24th of May, and you would like to spend 20 days sailing to travel to Mauritius, please contact us! We have berths available and a beautiful last minute price.
We have loved our stay in Cape Town, but we have not seen a lot of the beautiful surroundings, so we definitely have a reason to come back!
Log OOSTERSCHELDE - Ready for departure, 11 May 2013
Ready for departure
11 May 2013
Written by Gerben:
‘My job here in Cape Town is done. The last few days the whole crew worked very hard to get the ship ready for departure. Ten days ago there was a very long to-do-list but with hard work we now only have a few loose ends. I didn’t give myself, but also the crew, time to slow down. There was no time for relaxing, because everything that you can do in the harbour, you should do in the harbour; at sea you are dependent!
But all the hard work is rewarded if you see the ‘Oosterschelde’ now next to the ‘Europa’ and ‘Tecla’ in the harbour of Cape Town, with the Table Mountain on the background. Ready for the next leg of the around the world voyage.
But fist the open ship. It promises to be beautiful weather tomorrow. The eather is extraordinary good for the season in South Africa: little wind, sunny and during the day temperature above 25 degrees!’
Log OOSTERSCHELDE - Cape Town maintenance, 7 May 2013
Cape Town maintenance
7 May 2013
We need our time in Cape Town for maintenance. There is never enough, the ship suffers a lot from these long ocean crossings. Despite the companies we hired, the progress is slow and the pressure on the whole crew is high. We are aiming to get it all done at the end of the week so we’ll have some time to see something of Cape Town over the weekend. We also have an open ship, so everyone in Cape Town can see and visit the ship.
For now we keep on working. Long days, but the weather is good and this helps. Bit by bit we make progress.
Log TECLA - A South African welcome with penguins, 5 May 2013
A South African welcome with penguins
May 5, 2013
During the last few days of our South Atlantic crossing we lost our airtime so we could not update the logbook. We had a few fast days and a few slow days. Birds kept following us around and the only fish we caught jumped off the hook just before we could get it on board. Too bad, because it was a good sized Dolphinfish/Dorada.
On the 2nd of May we arrived in Cape Town and are now moored behind the Oosterschelde who arrived on the 1st. Our berth is in Albert dock, a renovated old trading area and we have a spectacular view on Table Mountain!
In the coming week we will go into the dry dock and paint the underwater ship. The weather here has been great so far, so hopefully that will last.
We crossed the South Atlantic Ocean with just the four of us, a real task and accomplishment. But also an amazing adventure! There were days that our food blew of our plates by the strong winds and there were days we spend in sunshine on a calm flat ocean. This crossing was divers in every sense, the wind has come from every direction and all strengths, the current has slowed us down and sped us along on different occasions. The wildlife was more divers then we had expected and upon entering the bay of Cape Town we were welcomed by both SEALS and PENGUINS!
Log OOSTERSCHELDE - In Cape Town, 3 May 2013
We arrived in Cape Town
3 May 2013
With about 150 nautical miles to go the wind was gone, so we had to go on engine. At sunrise we could see Table Mountain and a few minutes later it disappeared again in the clouds. When we were close to shore we spotted a few seals and a very big tuna jumping.
During the last few miles there were a lot of other ships passing by. The pilot helped us to ‘our’ spot in the harbour. Then it was time to stand on mainland again. Many of us went for a walk to adjust and look around a bit in Cape Town.
After dinner the best pictures where chosen, the beards where compared and we even sang a special ‘Oosterschelde’ song! We were all in a party mood and with a bit of music on deck the evening quickly turned into night.
Breakfast was heavenly, with croissants, different kinds of bread rolls, fresh fruit and eggs. After breakfast it was time for our guests to discover Cape Town. Everyone returned to the ship early as Wouter had promised to make a special goodbye dinner. And it was magnificent! A five course meal was served. To top of the day Jan held a speech about everyone.
Log TECLA - Cape Town! 2 May 2013
Cape Town!
02-05-2013
This morning the Tecla arrived in Cape Town. The first ocean is done. The last leg just sailed with the crew of four. As soon as they are in the air again more news.
Log OOSTERSCHELDE - Eclipse, 28 April 2013
Eclipse
28 April 2013
After a few days of very fast sailing the wind decreased bit by bit until there was no wind left at all. Luckily, after a few hours on engine, the wind came back so we could sail on. But first we took some time to stop for a refreshing dive into the ocean. It is a weird feeling to swim somewhere where there is 5000 meters of water below. And we had a Wandering albatross watching our every move. After the dive it was time to set sail again and in the evening we watched the moon with a glass of wine in our hand to see if we could see the eclipse. It was not so big, but the moon itself was gigantic.
Meanwhile we are sailing with a direct course to Cape Town. Because of the constant wind shifting we are busy with setting and changing sails.
Log TECLA - Perfect sailing day, 25 April 2013
Perfect sailing day
25-4-2013 00:23 UTC
It was perfect sailing weather and a perfect sailing day. Sun was shining most of the time and the wind was around a force 5 to 6. Although the waves are building up a little, they are very long ocean waves, so they make for a comfortable sail up and surf down. We did over 160 miles in the last 24 hours and have 933 miles left to Cape Town. Africa is getting closer!
Log TECLA - Plummeting barometers and talking dolphins, 22 April 2013
Plummeting barometers and talking dolphins
22-4-2013 04:21 UTC
This afternoon the barometer plummeted from 1009Hp to 1004Hp within 4 hours. The sky changed color and the persistent drizzle/rain we had all day turned into showers. We were still under full sail as our weather report said nothing of heavy winds or changing barometers on Sunday. But with clouds that looked like solid walls or even shore sides and all different shades of blue in the sky, we first took down the topsails and later reeved the main sail and changed the jib, when in the last hour the barometer dropped 2Hp in 1 hour.
Under small sails we waited, the wind changed direction, but decreased rather then increased.. And under small sail, Sam and I ended our watch. But then we heard a strange sound, a bit like a block skwieking, but we did not recognize the sound.. we listened a bit closer and all of sudden Loes is at the top of the stairs calling our names and to come have a look, DOLPHINS! So that was the sound!
If you listened closer you could recognize the sonar sound of a dolphin resonating in the ships hull! Outside you could hear them breathing and when we turned on the spotlight you could see groups of 10 or 20 dolphins all around, some of the groups had small calf's, half the size of their parents! We think it must have been bottlenose dolphins as they were very big! Right now there is a huge cloud heading our way. No wind yet, but it will be here soon enough.
Log TECLA - Passing Ocean Island Tristan da Cunha, 21 April 2013
Passing Ocean Island Tristan da Cunha
21-4-2013 01:39 UTC
This afternoon we passed the ocean island Tristan da Cunha. A volcano in the middle of the Ocean. Due to weather conditions we did not stop on the island. It would have been hard or near impossible to go ashore with the big swell that is running from the north and we do not want to lose this amazing wind we have right now. The day was not clear enough to really see the island, but we saw the 6 mile wide and 2000 meter high island because of its clouds. Typical clouds for land surrounded by water. We contacted the island on the vhf, got a local weather report and felt really sorry we could not stop. Ah well, just another excuse to come back one day.
As I said we have a very nice breeze blowing us straight to Cape Town, South Africa! Bf 4 to 5 from a northerly direction. We have our topsails set again and average about 7 knots, reaching. We expect the wind to increase again on Tuesday, so for now we are enjoying this topsail breeze.
Log TECLA - Ocean wandering, 20 April 2013
Ocean Wandering
20-04-2013 02:47UTC
Today was a true ocean wandering day. With the wind on the aft, the waves coming from the same direction we were surfing down 8 to 10ft (2,5 to 3 meters) waves during the afternoon. Speeding along nicely at 7 to 9 knots. The feeling of just being alone out there, no other vessels around, no phone connection, no internet (facebook, twitter or blog) to worry about just the ship, the crew and the elements. Showers seemed to pass us by and for most of the day it was sunglass, real "Ray Ban" weather.
Then the wind decreased as the sun was setting, so at watch hand over 00 board time we changed the small jib to our big jib. Gijs and Loes had already taken out the reef in the mizzen. The flapping of the sails (due to very slowly decreasing waves) is a bit annoying but other than that the 8 knots wind on deck is a nice change.
Log TECLA - From close hauled to down wind in 24 hours, 19 April 2013
From close hauled to down wind in 24 hours
19-04-2013 01:47 UTC
After writing last night’s logbook I took over the helm from Sam and the wind increased to 40 knots. We tried shaking it by going up to the wind, but when we got hit by bursts of about 42 knots we eased out the sheets, headed down wind and took down the mainsail for a few hours. The wind decreased a lot soon there after, so we set it whole again at watch hand over (06:00hours).
To bad for us, that seemed to be an unstable wind and we had to reef it down again 1,5 hours later when the wind increased again. This night the wind turned from N to NW to WNW and so we set the whole mainsail again after dinner and are going down wind now.. So from close hauled last night, to doing 10 knots reaching to down wind this night..
Bark Europa has left Tristan da Cunha again, the Oosterschelde is there tonight and tomorrow and maybe we will be able to see the islands, but we will probably not stop as we do not want to lose these favorable winds!
Log TECLA - Windy, rainy days on our way to Cape Good Hope, 18 April 2013
Windy, rainy days on our way to Cape Good Hope
18-4 01:47 UTC
Lots of wind today. We measured 37 knots over the deck. Speed is about 5 to 7 knots still between something you can’t really call close hauled and half wind. We have had showers most of last night, and it is pouring down hard on Sam right now. Waves are building up, but are significantly smaller than those of last week, especially for this wind! We are hoping the wind will turn more to the north tonight so that we can ease out the sheets and try a half wind course to Cape of Good Hope. Which is a very appropriate name, Good Hope. Time for me to take over the helm and test this old sailing suit of mine!
Log TECLA - From no wind into gusting wind again, 16 April 2013
From no wind into gusting wind again
16-4-2013 04:25 UTC
The last 2 days the wind had decreased into nothing, but this afternoon it picked up again and now we are back to sailing under small canvas. Wind is now coming from the east north east and the force is between a 5 and 6 bf. Last night the skies where so clear that we could see the stars rising on the horizon, visibility seemed to be endless. There were many shooting stars to be seen as well. Some as bright as flares lighting up the skies. Without any light around and no moon the last few days the stars really come out like you could never see them on land.
Log TECLA - Sighting of whale and decreasing winds, 14 April 2013
Sighting of whale and decreasing winds
14-4 05:00 UTC
Yesterday morning we saw a whale! We are not quite sure what kind (probably a humpback or fin whale) but it was very big and passed us only at a small distance. Its spray was enormous! it seemed to follow us a bit and then disappeared into the deep.
After a day and a night full of wind and waves, the wind is now decreasing and is leaving us with just the waves. The waves built up to almost 5 meters this morning, but have decreased a lot since then and are now back at about 2,5 / 3 meters. The last few showers still had a lot of wind in them, so we are still sailing with very small sails. Hopefully the skies will have cleared in the morning so that we can set the mainsail whole again and change the jib. We are under a sky full of stars again with many falling stars, which is nice after such a cold dark night as last night.
Log TECLA - Change in weather, 13 April 2013
Change in weather makes coffee blow out of its cup
13-4-2013 04:28 UTC
The weather changed last morning. At watch handover 6 o clock board time, we were surrounded by showers and the wind increased. As we were getting ready to get the topsails down, we got hit by a shower with a force 7. We headed down wind and decided to reef everything down as well as take down the topsails. With one at the helm and 3 on deck we took down the topsails downwind. Got back on course 110', reeved the mainsail, headed down wind again, lowered the big jib, set the small jib, got back on course again and reeved the mizzen. All that was done within the hour! At first it was all half wind, still doing 8 knots, but then the wind turned and now we are sailing between halfwind and close hauled averaging 7 knots.
Wind is now a steady bf 7 showers up to 32 knots, it is blowing the coffee straight out of our cups! And if it is not the wind howling at your coffee it is the waves diluting it with salt water!!!
Log TECLA - 8 knots under full sail again, 12 April 2013
8 knots under full sail again
12-4-2013 05:05 UTC
We are under full sail again. Last day or so we have had to use the engine, as there was no wind at all. We have seen the ocean in many conditions this trip, a lot of wind with waves breaking and spray everywhere, a waterhoze picking up the water of the ocean and whirling it, and last night totally flat with stars reflecting it its oily surface. We have almost completed our first third of this journey, over 1000 miles of this 3400 mile long ocean crossing. If we can keep up the 8 knots, the next 1000 might pass a bit faster.
Log TECLA - Turtle rescue! 10 April 2013
Tecla to the Turtle Rescue
08:16 UTC 10-4-2013
Yesterday we were sailing along quietly with 2,5 knots (5 knots wind from the SSW), when all of a sudden we saw a sea turtle! How cool! We all climbed up on something high to see better as it was about 100 meters away, a big one! As we looked closer it seemed to be in trouble. Its head was coming up high every now and then and it seemed to have something white clinging to it.. So Tecla team to the rescue! Engine on, man overboard turn and as we were heading towards it, it started trying to get away. The white floating thing was bothering him, or so we thought, he might be stuck.. but when we got there.. the turtle had totally vanished and the white floating thing was a round buoy of sorts. No rescue required... maybe the turtle was just as curious as we are..
Other then that, we are sailing and motoring at intervals. Wind has died out completely right now, but should be back tomorrow night!
To save turtles in the future: please remember that anything you throw into the sea that is not organic, can harm the animals in the sea! They do not know not to stick their head in a bottle, can or plastic bag, they just want to know what it is. They want to know if they can eat it, or play with it, or even live in it.. keep the sea clean!
Log TECLA - Day 6 crossing the South Atlantic Ocean, 9 April 2013
Day 6 at sea, sailing across the South Atlantic Ocean
9-4-2013 07:25 UTC
Day 6 at sea, we sailed most of the day, but when we got becalmed again last night we had to start the engine. Crossing the south Atlantic ocean takes weeks, so we are trying to make good time. We caught a blue fin Tuna today, what an amazingly beautiful fish! It was a nice size for the 4 of us, but we know the Blue Fin is rare and close the extinction, so we threw it back.
Maybe we will catch it again in a few years time. Reception is getting bad, so logbooks might not appear daily any more. To follow our progress you can always check out our Yellowbrick page!
Log TECLA - Dolphin fishes and light wind sailing, 8 April 2013
Dolphin fishes and light wind sailing
03:38 UTC 8-4-2013
We have been experiencing a very unstable breeze the last 24 hours. It has increased, decreased and turned between south west to south south east and back again.
This afternoon we pulled in the sheets to close hauled after enjoying one of Gijs his specialties, last-nights-dinner-in-dough! Which is like a calzone pizza with anything in it! THE BEST!
We sailed in light winds doing between 3,5 and 6 knots close hauled. The weather has been beautiful, sunny and very clear skies. We caught three dolphin fishes (doradas) but they were too small, so we threw them back into the sea. Sunday evening was celebrated with a cocktail in a coconut!
Brazilian style!
Log TECLA - Topsails and Twitter, 7 April 2013
Topsails and Twitter
04:30 UTC 7-4-2013
Last night we had to sail under engine for about 8 hours. The waves where to annoying and the wind not strong enough to keep the sails full. The sunrise after the starlit sky was amazing though! And as soon as the two watches where on deck (all four of us..!) we set all the sail we have. With topsails up and big jib in front we reached up to 10 knots just before lunch. After lunch there was a big black cloud heading our way. And in that cloud was a lot of wind! We turned downwind but it was not enough to shake the immense power in the topsails, so they had to come down! We only had 3 persons to man the halyard, sheet and downhaul, but it all went very smooth. We left them on deck for the rest of the day. During the night the wind decreased again and without any clouds around we set the topsails again at watch handover at 00:00 hours.
During the day we had two birds on deck. No idea what breed, but they were small and chasing the moths that had landed on deck as well. It was a nice change, two little birds cleaning our deck tweeting away! A different sort of Twitter all together!
Log TECLA - Starlit skies and hot coco, 6 April 2013
Starlit skies and hot coco
6-4-2013 05:11 UTC
Last night showers washed away the last bit of Tropics still clinging to the ship. The wind continued and even increased a little at times. With only our small sails up we reached 7,5 close hauled and when the wind backed more into the NE we even reached a speed of 8,5 knots on a small mizzen, fore staysail and small jib! Around 3 o'clock board time some thunder clouds showed up on our lower side, nothing to worry about, then the got bigger and where behind us, then they got even bigger and where on top of us.. We turned off all the equipment and lights and sailed between them. Gijs and Loes took the watch at 06:00 BT and only half an hour later there was a loud crack and bang. Lightning struck just over head.
This afternoon, the wind decreased and even died out a little before turning to the South West. Right now the mainsail is back up , double reeved still, but the engine on as well. There is a beautiful breeze, but it is not enough to keep the sails full with the waves that are left after 24 hours of wind force 8. It is so beautiful to have a clear ski after a cold front passing! So Sam and I made a nice cup of hot chocolate milk and are enjoying the beautiful starlit ski with Orion, the southern Cross and half of the big dipper hanging up side down.
Log TECLA - Sailing, 5 April 2013
Not roaring fourties, but roaring 26 degrees and screaming 26'30 degrees
05:40 UTC 5-4-2013
Wind has picked up, after reefing the mizzen just before dinner, we let the mainsail down after dinner. So now we are proceeding under small mizzen, forestaysail and small jib. It's just the four of us, so no workshops to worry about, taking as much rest as possible. Wind has turned to the NE and is gusting 8 bf. We are still doing 6 knots average! We expect this weather to last for about 2 days.
Log TECLA - Sailing again! To Cape Town, 4 April 2013
Exploding birthday balloons and headwinds
4-4-2013 03:30 UTC
We have left Santos and Brazil behind us. Happy to head out again, but sorry to leave this beautiful country! Our plans for 2014 are taking shape more and more, especially after we have seen how much there is to explore along the Brazilian coast.
The wind is coming from the E ESE force 5 to 6 over the deck. We have our small jib on and reefed the main sail. The waves are annoying, short steep waves, that rock us from side to side and slow us down a lot. AND because of this movement our birthday balloons for Loes keep exploding all of a sudden! At 00:00 we blew the horn and sang songs for Loes her birthday. A birthday at sea!
Log TECLA - Amazing cruise along the Brazilian coast, 2 April 2013
2 April 2013
We have had an amazing cruise along the Brazilian coast the last 2 weeks. We have gone from big city, to nature reserve islands, to jungle islands and back into the big city again!
One of our stops along the way was the most beautiful spot we have ever visited! A small island rising out of the water, green with jungle growth and two white beaches where we could land our dinghy and set up a BBQ.
The next morning we organised an expedition. First on the island to get to the highest point, then lunch and after lunch into the dinghy to see the islands from the water, and discover some of the underwater world as well. We beached the dinghy and headed into the green. Passing the only house on the island we had a great view on the Tecla through the palm trees. We then headed into thicker bushes and climbed up to where we hoped we would find the highest point of the Island. But due to the rain fall of the previous week some parts that looked like paths where obstructed or ground had disappeared where water had formed its own highway.
We got to a clearing with an amazing view and spotted a huge reptile! It ran as soon as it saw we were more than one person. In the clearing we also saw a black/dark purple hummingbird searching for flowers and parrots flying about. This was really the jungle experience! We climbed down a bit towards the water and discovered we could not get any further, so after a short rest we headed back the same way we came.
After lunch we all got into the dinghy and headed out to explore more! Weather was a bit cloudy, but warm, which made the underwater pictures not much special. Even though we saw beautiful fish and had a nice dive. We then headed back on board and got the ship ready for the last bit of the leg, with Santos as last port of call. We are tacking in water and diesel now and hope to be out on the big blue water again tomorrow. This will be our last day on this continent, hopefully we will be in Africa in 34 days!
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Ending the coastal voyage, 30 March 2013
Ending the coastal voyage
30 March 2013
Again we have finished one of our voyages. The nature here is fantastic, the green Brazilian coast is absolutely gorgeous. We have arrived in Santos, where we are anchored in the yacht club, just like in Rio de Janeiro. Today ‘Oosterschelde’ is open to all yacht club members. Nicholas, our Brazilian crewmember had to leave the ship early, but one of our guests speaks Portuguese and helps us to translate. After this voyage we also say goodbye to First mate Frianko and sailors Ben and Tanja. New crew to arrive are Maarten, Jacob and Peter. On Monday we welcome our guests from Rotterdam Port Promotion Council (RPPC) on board. Chef Wouter is already preparing for the nice and luxurious finger food we will serve on that day. The rest of us prepare the ship for the new guests and the business event on board.
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Almost in Santos! 28 March 2013
Almost in Santos
28 March 2013
About 45 miles to go before we arrive in Santos, we expect to arrive at 6 PM local time.
We sailed along a gorgeous coast, with islands, mangroves, idyllic villages and bays. It was unforgettable. The weather was not very favourable, showers, no wind or wind from the wrong direction. Sometime we could sail a big part but then the wind turned and we had to turn on the engine.
We are now sailing past an island that is being used for military shooting practise and is called Alcatraz(es), so funny comments are made about that.
Unfortunately we have to say goodbye to our guests tomorrow morning. Tonight is our last evening and we are very curious who will be the winner of this photo competition.
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Paraty, Brazil, 27 March 2013
Paraty
27 March 2013
The evening after our departure from the beautiful bay of Mamangua we arrived at Paraty. Because we did not have a good chart of the harbour we decided to anchor at a safe distance. At dawn we continued with the Fathometer and a lead line. Upon arrival there was another sailing ship, the ‘Tocorime Pamatojari’, which is sailing here a sail-training vessel.
We organized an excursion for our guests crew member with jeeps to some magnificent waterfalls and a cacassa distillery, a local rum that is made from sugar cane. There was also a possibility to take the bus to Trinidade. After a 30-minute ride you arrive at beautiful beaches and natural lagoons. A few other guests decided to explore the town, when it becomes high tide the water is so high it floods a part of town.
After breakfast we lift the anchor for the last leg to Santos, about 140 miles to go. The forecast predicts S 2-3 Bft, later on turning more E. Let’s hope that the weather is favourable and we have a smooth and nice sailing leg towards Santos.
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Ilha Grande and Mamanguá Bay, Brazil, 25 March 2013
Visiting Ilha Grande and Mamangua Bay
25 March 2013
On Sunday morning we arrive at Ilha Grande, at 6 AM. What a breathtaking view! We overlook the mountains with several palm trees in all sizes and colours. The guests visit the island and arrive back on the ship after a few hours. A nice lunch buffet welcomes them back on board and after the long walk everyone really enjoys the meal. Some of the guests go back to the island after lunch to have a further look to nature. In the evening we eat at a local fish restaurant.
This morning we left after breakfast and after a couple of hours sailing, we arrive in Mamangua Bay, on the mainland. The guests make a walk to a famous waterfall. As soon as the guests come back we’ll set sail to Paraty. We will anchor there for the night and try to go closer in the next morning to visit this beautiful village, a UNESCO world heritage.
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Ilha Grande, Brazil, 24 March 2013
Ilha Grande
24 March 2013
‘Oosterschelde’ arrived at Ilha Grande, 60 miles southwest of Rio. Even most Brazilians say this is one of the most beautiful islands of the country. The ship is anchored on the north side of the island, in a bay called Enseada Sitio Forte, near Ubatubinha, and all guests visit the island today. We look forward to hearing all stories and impressions when they arrive back on board. The look over the bay is already breathtaking!
Log BARK EUROPA - Sailing to South Georgia, 22 March 2013
Rolling towards South Georgia
22-03-2013 10:00
How does it feel to be on sea for days, weeks, month? Being away from family and friends at the very south of our planet, the so called white continent?
WHITE sounds like unspoiled, pristine, newborn. Our ship and her captain and crew have sailed us now for two weeks to unknown places, through rough seas, majestic icebergs. Also to animals which are not afraid of people and look at us with the same curiosity as we do. Life is everywhere on this planet - even in the harshest environment - we can appreciate this now.
Today we sail across the Brainsfield Strait, heading towards South Georgia 800 miles away. Around the ship always some Southern Fulmars and Cape Petrels and in the morning some Finnwals. The weather changed from one minute to other, from setting sails at 11am to bringing them down shortly after because of strong winds and ice-showers. This is sailing in Antarctic Waters!
Christine & Claudia
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - To Rio de Janeiro, 20 March 2013
Extremes
20 March 2013
We have 240 miles to go before we reach Rio de Janeiro. But we are not very lucky with the weather, there is almost no wind and when there is, it is during heavy showers with gusts of wind up to 7 Bft.
Yesterday morning close to Victoria we saw four orange objects. We first thought it were life rafts, so we went to have a closer look. It turned out to be orange buoys for the oil and gas industry. Attached to the buoys are cables to pick up pipelines.
With the heavy showers, thunderstorms, storms and calms it looks a bit like the North Sea in the fall. We all are wearing rain gear. It feels like fall but the thermometer says it is 27 degrees. Brazil, the land of extremes, either it is extremely hot or rain is pouring down with drops as big as cherries. No wonder it is so green here, even the flag is green.
Sailing here, in the footsteps of explorers, is a real honour. It is the same waters, the same climate and also with a lot of crew on a sailing ship.
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Salvador to Santos, Brazil, 18 March 2013
Fisherman in trouble
18 March 2013
Yesterday and last night we had beautiful weather to sail. With a speed of 6 knots we sailed close reach. We set all the sails and then turned the engine off. We sail close to shore and once in a while we see a local fisherman on the horizon. Yesterday we saw a fisherman with the crew waving with a big piece of foam. We suspected he was in trouble so we sailed towards him. Luckily we have our Brazilian sailor Nikolas on board and he could find out what was wrong. The fisherman had trouble with his propeller shaft and he asked us if we could bring him to the harbour. Meanwhile the coastguard was close by and they helped him so we could sail further.
Today there is a bit of rain and unfortunately not a lot of wind. The forecast predicts more, but for now it is still 3 knots, or 1 Bft.
For some entertainment we organise a theoretical lesson in astronomical navigation. A few of our guest crewmembers know a lot about positioning with a sextant and navigation on stars.
If everything goes well we will pass by the Abrolhos Islands. We hope to spot humpback whales. In wintertime they mate in the waters surrounding this archipelago. It promises to be a versatile day with hopefully some wind later in the day.
Log TECLA - Sailing to Abrolhos, 17 March 2013
Underway sailing again
03:43 UTC 17-3-2013
We left the bay of Salvador yesterday afternoon and are underway sailing again. First stop will be the Abrolho islands where we hope we can do some swimming and sightseeing.
The mood on board is really good, relaxed. This afternoon was spend catching up on sleep by most of us and otherwise chatting and enjoying the sun and wind. Last night and this night there are some showers around that washed the deck and the crew on it clean. The wind is variable in force and in direction, right now we are doing 3,7 knots in the right direction.
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Salvador to Santos, Brazil, 15 maart 2013
On our way to Santos
15 March 2013
We are now ready for the next adventure: the Brazilian coastal voyage from Salvador to Santos. Part of our crew and guest crew have left the ship and some new guests have arrived. The ship is almost fully booked. On this voyage we have a Brazilian crew member on board. Nikolas will show us around in this beautiful country.
In the past few days we have bought a lot of fresh food, and supplemented our stocks. We are anchored in Salvador and almost ready for departure. Everyone on board is excited to see a lot of this beautiful country and its green coast. We hope to arrive at one of the most beautiful islands of the area, at Morro de Sao Paulo on the island of Tinhar? (30 miles from Salvador). The locals describe it as a true holiday paradise. A nice leg to explain our new guest crew all about sailing on board ‘Oosterschelde’.
It is now 06:44 local time, and already getting quite hot. We hope the wind will return soon, so we can set sail straight away.
Log BARK EUROPA - Cape Horn to Cape of Good Hope voyage, 12 March 2013
Alone on a wide sea
12-03-2013 10:00
The day starts with an incredible bright star sky, we were rolling softly over the water because we were still in a high pressure system and the wind was calming down. We getting more and more accustomed to be on seawatch in night and day. And we had another beautiful day. In the cloudy morning there were some birds around us, for example the littlest seabird in Antarctica - the Wilsons`s Storm Petrel (seams like the swallows home) but also some big ones like the southern Giant Petrel or Albatrosses. A little feeling of the bird view is what we get, when we are climbing the masts on this calm morning.
Since we reached the Southern Ocean yesterday, by crossing the 60 degree latitude we also reached the cold Antarctic Water. Therefore it has been a special 50 minutes when a Dwarf Minky Wale from Sub-Antarctica was visiting us. Maybe he was looking for his mother and the Europa seams like that - he was circling around and enjoyed us with his white fins and body in the clear deep blue water. Boring on board? Never! There are lectures too: Sampling Nutrients in the Southern Ocean, Oceanography and of course sailhandling to become accustomed with this great variety of ropes.
Today were all sails set to get as much speed as possible with less wind - in the morning about 2 knots to 5 in the afternoon, we are creeping and we are now alone on wide sea - 200 miles to Cape Horn, 200 miles to the Antarctic Peninsula, hundreds of miles water to the east and west, wide and endlessness over the deep ink blue sea, time to imagine the old sailors times even in stormy days while sitting in the lookout and the old lady - Europa - is pitching softly.
Claudia
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 8 March 2013
Almost there
8 March 2013
Near the Brazilian coast the waves have almost disappeared. Also the wind has decreased. The swell is less than to be expected. Maybe this relatively flat sea is caused by the south-going Brazil current that we have entered. Today we got out our old Walker log and used it to check on the strength of that current. In a few hours we did 5,7 miles per hour according to the log and 6,5 according to the GPS. So, the current is 0,8 miles per hour. In a day almost 20 miles extra!
We make good progress and the end of this leg is coming in sight. If we continue like this, we will reach Salvador on Saturday afternoon.
Log TECLA - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 7 March 2013
Southern Hemisphere - Sailing to Brazil
03:02UTC 7-3-2013
So we crossed the equator to the Southern Hemisphere.. and then.. anything changed? Well our names changed, Neptune gave us a test and we passed. After passing his test he gave us new names, by which we are now known in his Royal Domain. Gijs is now known as Mako (a shark), Sam is now known as Tursiops Truncatus (bottle nose dolphin) and I (jet) am now known as Lutra (otter).
We have tried to explain to our voyage crew that on the other side of the world, as we are upside down sort of, the water in the toilet flushes the other way around and that we needed to turn the compass around to keep on course.. But they would not believe us.. Jeremy is an upside down sort of Aussie guy any way!
Right now we are sailing along at a nice pace. We have about 350NM to go to Salvador, Brazil, and we are heading straight for it. The Oosterschelde is about 60/50 miles to the south of us, with about the same distance to Salvador. Although we have had our fair share of solid water from the sky, we have had it dry the last few days, it has actually been very sunny! In the shade the temperature gets above 31 degrees. To keep it somewhat cool downstairs we have made wind catchers in all the hatches which makes it about 27/25 degrees during the day and down to 23 degrees during the night. The night watch is still in shorts and T-shirt with a beautiful starlit sky! Sailing to Brazil!
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 7 March 2013
Bbq under sail and photo-night on deck
7 March 2013
Not only we can bear away for a bit, but the wind also decreases and is backing to the east. (Or is it called ‘veering’ here in the southern hemisphere where everything turns around?) Anyway we are still sailing towards the coast with a decreasing wind and we decide to bbq on deck. We try to hang up a tent, a lamp and place the bbq on the leeward side of the ship. Fully rigged and with a speed of 7 knots, while we all eat together on deck. After the bbq we project the results of the photo competition (soon to see on our website!). Because it is a pitch-black night (the moon is not out yet) we do this outside. When the beamer is off, everyone is impressed with the night and the beautiful starry sky.
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 5 March 2013
‘Oosterschelde’ spurts through the water
5 March 2013
This afternoon we had Recife abeam. We are still about 300 miles from the coast of Brazil and the chance that we will end up in the north-going Guyana current is small. Therefore we can bear-away and ease the sheets a bit. It is only 15 degrees, but the ‘Oosterschelde’ immediately shoot away. 7, 8, 9 knots without any problems. Though the waves are quite high and come from the side, the ship doesn’t sway and is steady in the water. We go very fast and every now and then a big wave sets us to the side. To keep us alert. If we keep up this speed it is only a few days before we will land in Brazil.
Log TECLA - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 3 March 2013
Sailing in the Tropics.
02:47 UTC 3-3-2013
Sailing in the tropics, not with palm trees and white beaches (yet) but warm, tropical squalls and a south east trade wind. Right now we are sailing close hauled after another day of variable winds and choppy waves we have a pretty steady wind from the south south east, but we are still surrounded by squalls. At the start of our night watch Sam and I got soaking wet in one of them. And these squalls are something different from what we are used to on the North Sea. This is sailing in the tropics. One moment there is a warm breeze, 3/4 bf and then you see this big black thing coming towards you. At first you can see underneath it, the lower edge is dark, blacker then the night. The top of this Cumulonimbus is still growing and it seems to want to roll right over you. Lit up by the moon, white bulbs grow and explode out of the cloud. And then you see that the bottom, somewhere in a corner, is fading and it seems the whole sky and sea are one, that is the part we are not going to like..
When the cloud finally catches up with us, at first, it just seems to get a little darker and then you here a rush, a ruffle on the water and that is this far end corner that has also caught up with you and is pouring solid water on your head! All the while it is still warm and the wind does not increase much, until after the rain. First rain then wind.... So no topsails tonight.
Now after the rain we are still in our shorts and tshirt on deck, the warm wind will dry wet clothes fast, probably just in time for another shower! Wind is about 4bf now and seems to hold up steady without any cloud activity around us.
Log TECLA - Sailing across the equator, 2 March 2013
We have crossed the equator! Meeting Neptune
03:32 UTC 2-3-2013
Last night we crossed the equator at 026'16.3W around 20:30! Neptune appeared on board just before we crossed the clearly visible equator (a red line during the day and a green laser during the night). It was already dark and we were counting down the last cables when all of a sudden a candle light appeared on the front deck. It came closer and called out to us wanting to know our intentions and what we had to offer him for crossing into his royal domain. We offered him 4 pollywogs and he seemed pleased with that. Tomorrow at noon he will appear again and set out some tasks for them and see if they are worthy of becoming Shellbacks.
Gijs missed the whole deal but when he returned from the toilet we took our first dive into the South Atlantic Ocean, Sam went first off the bow of the moving Tecla (we were ding around 2 knots), when Sam was on deck again, I went in (Jet) and after me Gijs took his dive. Hitting the dark water was a bit scary. The water here is pretty warm, about 24 degrees, so when you dive in it is not a shock, but the dark is!
Other than that everything on board is well. We started sailing again this morning doing 4 knots with just the smallest breeze. We had some showers in the morning and again this evening. The wind picked up for an hour or two between two showers, but has died out again, leaving us drifting at 2 knots.
But we are in the south now, we crossed the equator! We made it this far!
Log TECLA - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 1 March 2013
Waiting for the South East trade winds
02:44 UTC 1-3-2013
Today we really hit the doldrums, this morning around 5:00 local time we were surrounded by clouds that looked threatening, heavy with heat and rain, lighting up the sky with white bursts of lightning. Expecting to get hit by squalls we had already taken down the topsails and around 2:00 the jib, but no wind had come. And at 05:00 the wind just died out completely! With a heading of 340' on the compass and a course over the ground of 166' doing 0,3 knots, we lost all ability to steer, so unfortunately we had to start the engine. We then got soaking wet by the rain and this morning we could take a shower just standing in the rain.
The wind has not yet returned, although we are hoping it will soon, and that it will be the South East trade wind to take us to Brazil.
Log BARK EUROPA - Antarctica voyage, 1 March 2013
"The Polar Express"
01-03-2013 10:00
Returning through the Drake, moods changed and partying ceased. Swells grew and we began to stumble and fall. Objects started flying...plates, glasses, food, drinks and us. Taking a shower is a huge challenge with the risk of flying out the door naked. Meanwhile the crew walks around like a bunch of ballet dancers. Many are seasick again. We are required to stand watch and steer the ship in shifts, sometimes at 04:00 - 08:00 or 00:00 - 04:00. We must be strapped to safety lines due to slippery decks and wind. The rolling and heaving is both aggravating and hypnotising.
Late one night going south two weeks ago, the wind and the waves synchronized in our favor and for once we were hurdling through space smoothly and silently at 10 knots. It felt like a highspeed train and I imagined being in the children's book "The Polar Express". I put Wagner's "Die Valkyrie" on the deck house stereo. Off we flew to Antarctica. No such moment heading north yet. Never the less, talks by Jordi, Seth, Jules, and Tara as well as films about Antarctica make this time fun and worthwhile.
Log TECLA - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 28 February 2013
Doldrums, squalls, sun parasols and sailing the Tecla by Jeremy Chan
A few days of sailing under constant equatorial sunlight calls for rather innovative measures on the part of the crew. A parasol was erected by the helm, giving the ship an appropriate tropical flavour. Also, a makeshift pool was created towards the bow! An enormous rope coil lined with a tarp and filled with seawater hosed in made for a relaxing tub wherein any stifling discomforts literally evaporated. It certainly negated any excuse to retreat below decks.
The twilight watch took a rather eventful turn about halfway through when the wind came to an almost abrupt halt and the waves settled to a rather placid rhythm. It looked like we had finally arrived at the Doldrums; and what an experience it was. The atmosphere turned pregnant with a nearly frustrated anticipation as the ship coasted along at a snail's pace. With the direction of the wind becoming unsteady, we decided to gybe the ship.
Our seventh day across the Atlantic turned out to be quite as colourful. In the face of the noon sun we rolled up our sleeves and got to work cleaning out our cabins and the deck. It felt odd to use a vacuum cleaner and rag after so many days. Just when we were about to reward ourselves with some sunlight, the sky broke with an uncharacteristic bout of rain, which heralded a bustle of activity on deck. With a north-easterly breeze and overcast squalls, we got to work taking down the topsails and gybing the ship a sharp 45 degrees. A haphazard shift in winds prompted us to gybe the ship again later in the afternoon.
In terms of progress, however, these inclement conditions proved much in our favour. A brisk current from then on saw the ship cutting sharply through the waves, clocking up speeds in excess of 5 knots. We were enjoying a heady, north-north-easterly breeze to our backs. Despite the heavens being lined with heavy, ominous clouds, we were more or less in our element, the air being peppered with intermittent squalls.
Until next time, Tecla out.
Log TECLA - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 27 February 2013
Hitting the Doldrums?
03:00 UTC 27-2-2013
The wind force is getting less as we approach the equator, this afternoon we were still doing 5 knots, right now it is down to 2,4. The wind is still from the north east so our course is mainly south. 6 days out at sea and the sun is getting hotter and hotter. We have tried to make more shade with our parasols and to cool down we have made a small swimming pool on the front deck. Temperatures get up to about 30/35 degrees and you best stay out of the sun or else get sunburned very quickly!
During the nightwatch the temperature is down to 25 degrees and for the first time in days it is a bit overcast. Who knows, maybe the morning will bring some easterly winds..!
Log TECLA - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 26 February 2013
Beautiful weather, still some wind. Real ocean sailing
26-2-2013
With so many things going on during this crossing there are so many things that just did not get mentioned yet... here are a few of them:
We caught a dolphin fish between Tarrafal and Mindelo. A beautiful creature full of color and pretty big! We killed it and got 15 thick slices out of it. We BBQed them at night and it was delicious! This also means we are not fishing right now.. as we still have many slices in the freezer!
And on Sao Nicolau we went to a BBQ the night we were there with the Oosterschelde. Their local contact had arranged a big BBQ for both crews and it was the perfect setting! On a small private beach, palm trees around us and live music from 3 locals. The food was great and the company even better.
In Mindelo we found a mercado municipal where we found all the fresh stuff we needed with help of two locals. Everything as 'verde' (green) as possible and if they did not sell it, they went and found it somewhere on the market. We walked away with 17 kilos of oranges! And a strong home made drink in an old coca cola bottle... for when we cross the equator!
We have spotted the Southern Cross and are now actually sailing towards it. This feels a bit like the start of everything new. New stars, new wildlife, new waters and new countries! Yesterday we saw a giant sea turtle!
Other than that, everything is well on board. Weather has been great, really hot! Sleeping with all the doors open! Wind has been NE most of the time, straight downwind.. We have talked to the Oosterschelde who are doing very well. We are about 34 miles apart now, heading for the equator.
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Atlantic Ocean, 25 February 2013
Warmer and more relaxed
25 February 2013
Every day turns a bit warmer than the day before. This afternoon it was around 32 degrees Celsius at sea. Even the water is about 24 degrees. But as soon as we get used to it, we get a bit spoiled and we put on a sweater at night, because it is ‘only’ 28 degrees. Oh well… Everyone becomes more relaxed after a few days at sea. The heat might be involved but also the calmness of the sea, letting stress from work and travelling go will make you more relaxed. And of course the environment and sounds of the sea…
Some people already discuss Salvador during dinner. We hope they realize that we are not there yet, we have a couple of weeks at sea to go before we reach land again. The atmosphere is very nice on board. Everyone enjoys themselves by doing some maintenance, setting the sails over and over again, shooting stars and beautiful pictures. Today we circled around the ship with the dinghy to make pictures of the ship under sail.
Log TECLA - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 24 February 2013
A perfect nightwatch.
02:20 UTC 24-2-2013
What a perfect night! This is exactly what I had imagined an Ocean crossing would be like. Sam and I have the 12-6 watch, our alarms goes at 23:40 and around 23:55 we step out on deck. Sam is in his shorts, tshirt and sweater, I am in a tshirt and my linnen pants. There is a small warm breeze as we step out on the deck and the smell of fresh coffee meets us half way from the aft.
Gijs makes us a cup of coffee, Ron tells us the story of their watch, while Jeremy fills in the logbook. I take over the wheel as the off going watch takes a cup of tea and heads off to bed. Then the ship is ours. The moon is very bright and you can see everything on deck. I steered the first hour, which is oh so easy with the star constellation the Southern Cross to steer by and the wind from the back. Time just flies by! Sam puts the two breads Gijs has prepared in the oven and then takes over the helm. Perfection, what a night!
Log TECLA - Out on the Atlantic Ocean, 22 February 2013
Topsails up - lets go sailing!
19:37 UTC 22-2-2013
Second day out on the Ocean, about 220NM out of Mindelo. We started off with a lot of wind, which decreased last night so we got the reef out and pulled up the big jib. This morning the wind decreased even more so after lunch we set the topsails and are now up to a speed of 7 to 8 knots most of the time.
Flights of flyfish have crossed the deck and although we have been able to throw some of them back into the water, somewhere found this morning when it got light.
Today we have had beautiful weather, nice cool wind and a warm sun. Perfect sailing weather!
Log TECLA - Crossing the Atlantic Ocean, 21 February 2013
Crossing the Atlantic Ocean!
17:06 UTC 21-02-2013
We have started our crossing of the Atlantic Ocean, sailing from Mindelo on the Cape Verde Islands to Salvador in Brazil. Last night we had dinner on board the Oosterschelde where we wished each other fair winds and following seas. This morning after breakfast we left our anchorage under sail and headed out to the open sea, the deep blue water! Our plan now is to head south and cross the equator between 026' and 027' west. Right now the Intertropical Convergention Zone is mostly on the northern hemisphere between 07' north and the equator itself. Our gribfiles show wind in the Doldrums, so we are hoping to sail through!
It is an amazing feeling to be under way again and to start our journey across the Atlantic Ocean. Our first big leg, the shortest of all crossings, but one where we see and experience it all!
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Cape Verde, 20 February 2013
Final preparations
20 February 2013
We are anchored at Mindelo (Porto Grande). Most of our guests are making a beautiful walk on Santo Antao. The crew is busy with the last preparations for departure. Early this morning we bunkered oil at the quayside. Wouter, our cook was on shore the whole day to buy enough food for the crossing and we were busy with the ship. Repairing a sail, some painting, stowing away groceries, cleaning the deck, etc.
Earlier we painted the mid-deck and today it is time to do the quarterdeck and then the ship looks good again. All the wood fenders and ropes are tucked away, because we won’t need them any time soon so this clears up the deck also. Of course we also checked maps, studied the weather forecast and read the pilot. The forecast predicts strong wind for the coming days. Strong, but in our back so that won’t be a problem. Tomorrow morning we will buy the last fruit and vegetables and we will clear customs. Around lunch we hope to depart.
The ‘Tecla’ is anchoring next to us. They are ready for departure so they will depart in the morning. We will leave a half-day behind, so we have something to focus on… we will have daily radio contact and keep each other up to date. The ‘Tecla’ lead in catching fish. But we have new bait since today so we will pursue them, to be continued!
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Cape Verde, 19 February 2013
Crossing beautiful islands…
19 February 2013
Again we have a beautiful departure. Sheltered by the island, we set sail. Just before the wind blows in the sails, we are joined by a large group of dolphins who swim around the ship. When we pass the cape, we see white crests on the blue sea. The wind (NNE, 5 Beaufort) is quite firm and we sail hauled but without help of the engine across 2 uninhabited islands; Rasa and Branco. We are now passing Santa Luzia, another small island, which is inhabited since several years now.
There is a sad story here. An old tanker stranded here three months ago and the crew is still on board. Because salvage of the ship is too expensive for such an old ship (without cargo on board) the just leave it there. Owner and insurance company are still discussing who has to pay for the salvage. The (most probably) Philippine crew has no money to travel home and await on board the ship.We sail towards Mindelo, Sao Vicente. This is our final stopover to buy provisions and fresh food and for our guests the final moment to see some land for a while. After this stop, we start our transatlantic crossing.
Log BARK EUROPA - Antarctica voyage, 18 February 2013
Dear friends of the ship Europa
18-02-2013 10:00
We are now acclimatizing ourselves to life on board a big ship. Though as small and insignificant we are, we feel safe in our home at sea and know that this team will guide us safely on our adventures. Our position is 62'33S by 59'34W we just arrived at Greenwich Island and landed at Fort Point. I was jolted out of a deep sleep by the sound of small ice bergs rattling along the hull.
This sound is almost indistinguishable from the anchor chain being lowered. After a quick breakfast (breakfast has been shortened to 1 hour to give more time at shore landings) we set out on the zodiacs to explore the island. It was a wavy landing, the beach was very rocky and the usual welcoming crew of chin strap penguins and fur seals were waiting for us. This of course we knew because we could smell them long before we could see them.
We saw the remains of many penguins that were food for leopard seals. This reminds one of the balance that this place exists in. Part of that balance is of course threatened by human impact. We have collected substantial amounts of garbage that has drifted up on to shore. I was surprised that the plastics would travel so far. I will be more careful at home with what I throw away.
We witnessed the death of a small penguin by two adult ones who pecked it to death. The thinking was that this baby penguin had wandered into the wrong nest and the parents were protecting their own space and baby. As tragic as this seem to us, nothing goes to waste and soon giant Petrels and Skua’s will consume the remains. We traversed the island and ended up climbing the glacier which one of our shipmates named after himself, so it is now known as the Shaun Glacier. The fun part was sliding down to the base and re-joining our party.
After lunch we set off west along Livingston Island via the Bransfield Strait. We have discovered some hidden talents on board. Rebecca from Australia plays the violin very well and led us all in a sing along. David from Bahamas has climbed Mount Everest and has promised to give us a presentation. Our 6 friends from South Africa have illuminated the ship with their camaraderie and friendly energy. We plan to head to Hannah point (same name as my daughter) and overnight there. More later.
Best Michael Schwarz Toronto
Shipslog OOSTERSCHELDE - Cape Verde, 15 February 2013
Pilot Whales
15 February 2013
At eight in the morning we lift the anchor and depart from Sao Nicolau. In the bay the wind is not noticeable and we sail over a smooth sea. Suddenly we sea a group of Pilot whales from afar. It is a big group of about 30 whales that stay on course while we can admire them from very close by. After we passed the island it turns out to be lovely weather for sailing. The wind was almost north and about 4 bft. We were able to sail to Sal Rei at once and we don’t even have to sail close-hauled so we can make a lot of speed with an average speed of 9 knots. At half pas ten at night we drop the anchor at Boa Vista.
On Boa Vista the weather was perfect for a day at the beach, which is nice when you are on an island that consists of sand and beaches. Due to a sunny sky and little dust in the air the guests return to the ship with a nice tan.
Now we are sailing on engine to Sal. Time flies, as this is the last leg of the last voyage in Cape Verde this year. The ‘Tecla’ is waiting for us in the bay of Santa Maria. Together we will depart in a few days for the next stop on our voyage around the world: Brazil.
Log BARK EUROPA - Antarctica voyage, 14 February 2013
Second day sailing
14-02-2013 10:00
Today is our second day sailing. Yesterday we sailed through the Beagle Channel with the pilot on board. On the engine, with a few sails set. Beautiful weather and sightings of dolphins, a Sei whale and Magellan Penguins. At the end of the channel we dropped off the pilot and laid in a southerly course. During our trip through the channel we were given all kinds of instructions about climbing the masts, sail-handling and helming instructions, safety, and etcetera. A sturdy endive hotchpotch didn´t do any harm as we started to feel the ocean swell more and more.
Luckily the number of seasick was relatively low. At 22:00 the engine was stopped and we continued under full sail. The watches were started up and we, orange watch, started with the dogwatch from 00:00 till 04:00. Rotating in pairs, first half an hour on the foredeck as lookout (not much to see in the dark!), half an hour on the helm and then standby. Spectacular, especially because also wind and swell had increased significantly. Satisfied, we handed over our watch at 4 o’clock and rolled into our bunks. Today we are sailing on the Drake Passage towards the South Shetlands, with a pale sun and a nice north-easterly wind from the quarter.
Log TECLA - Cruising around the Cape Verde Islands, 13 February 2013
Cruising around the Cape Verde Islands
13-2-2013 19:20 local time
We have been cruising around the Cape Verde Islands for the last 3 days. Tarrafal on Soa Nicolau was our first stop. We stayed for the night and had a late breakfast. Our group then got into a pickup truck and where driven over the island by Toys ending their cross country journey in Carracal on the other end of the island. We met them there in the afternoon. Carracal is a small village, hard to get to. It is surrounded by mountains, but right there in the middle there is a natural bay with a beautiful oase, green trees surrounded by red and yellow/brown stone. After a late lunch we went for a dive and discovered that there was even more to see here then on the Canary Islands! Everywhere you looked there where fishes, beautiful fishes, schools of grey, green and yellow fishes and fishes with huge eyes hiding in caves!
The next day we sailed to Boaviste where we stayed the night and this morning visiting the village Sal Rei, which was a lot more tourist focussed then Sal and Sao Nicolau! Tonight we will drop anchor in the bay of Santa Maria where we will most likely stay all day tomorrow.
Sailing was nice today, but we had the current and the wind against us... cruising around the Cape Verde Islands is so different from the Canary Islands! We love it here!
Log TECLA: Sal, Cape Verde - 10 February 2013
Cabo Verde - 10-02-2013
01:32 UTC - ON SAL!
Today we arrived on Sal, most North East Island of the Cabo Verde group. The wind had picked up during the night giving us an average of 8 knots. We arrived at 10:30 local Time (UTC -01:00H) and Sam and me (Jet) set foot on shore around 11:20 to go to the Airport and get the Tecla and our passports cleared into the country.
With the Canary Islands still fresh in our memory we stepped on the shore in the small harbour of Sal. The locals were busy on the shore with hauling fish from a little boat and other where cleaning the fish in the open air.
Just past all the colorful boats there was a small shop selling colorful items and a small bar with maybe 6 chairs. Past the harbour was a small town, very poor, but again everything full of color! It was warm on shore, but still with a strong wind blowing. Dogs were walking around or sleeping on the street corners and women carried vegetables on plates on their heads. We saw no taxies or what looked like public transportation, but a small bus stopped 3 times asking if we wanted to get in. At first we declined bus as we realized this was maybe the best public transport, always on time, always there when you are. And so we got into a car with a guy who told us he has many friends (whom we picked up along the way and payed a small fee for their way) and a daughter who was studying in America. He set us off on the Airport where we went to customs with our papers.
We sat in the office waiting with the television on (some American movie with Portuguese subtitles) and where done at 13:00 hours. Our new friend with the "bakkie" was not to be found, so we took a taxi and went back to the Tecla. Our group then went a shore and the evening we spent together on board.
The country site so far has been dry and wind swept. Sal is not a very high Island and so the wind has free play here on everything that grows. Although rough, it is beautiful and friendly here, and it is Africa! It is so different from the Canary Islands! The houses might have the same color, but the people living in them are totally different. Los Cristianos and her white Hotels and beaches seems so far away. It is amazing to be here!
Log TECLA: Canarian Islands - Cape Verds, 10 February 2013
Sailing to Sao Nicolau - 10-02-2013
19:12 local time
This morning we set sail towards Sao Nicolau, one of the other islands of the Cape Verde group. It is a trip of about 93NM and we have about 15 miles to our anchorage at Tarrafal. The wind has been a force 5 or 6 most of the day and is now decreasing.
Tomorrow we will stay in Tarrafal to have some time to discover the island. Sao Nicolau is a long island, 25NM long, so we have had a good view of the mountains on the island while sailing past her.
The evenings here fall very fast. It started to get dark around 18:30 and now it is already fully dark. A lot of stars shine brightly in this total darkness, no moon to be seen.
Log TECLA - 8 February 2013
Fresh Tuna for dinner! 8-2-2013
19:19UTC 109 NM from Sal
Yesterday after finishing our daily log much happened! The wind picked up and on radar we could see showers around us, so we first reeved the mainsail. After reeving, the watch was handed over to the blue watch and when Hans checked the log, it seemed it was not turning... so someone suggested that the fishing line might be caught in the logging line... we tried pulling it in, and yes there was some strange tension on the line. Jokingly Gijs and Sam pulled the line in, laughing the idea of a Tuna away... Everything around us was already dark so we could not see what was on the line until the line and the fish where on the deck! Bigger than the one we caught in the Bay of Biscay! And so tonight we enjoyed our tuna steak grilled on our perfect small BBQ!
Other than that we altered course today and set sail for Sal. Another 109 NM to go.
Log TECLA - 7 February 2013
Sailing rhythm 7-2-2013
19:14UTC 263NM
Day 4 at sea and the sea rhythm, the sailing rhythm is settling in. We are getting used to our watches and the (sometimes) weird hours we sleep in. We have afternoons together for some activities and the evenings together for dinner and dishes and then of course our own watch. Steering, drinking a cup of coffee (by now everybody knows who drinks his coffee black and who uses milk or sugar), some small chores during the day and the logbook.
Today we did not change anything about the sails, we have been sailing downwind with a wind force 4/5 from the North East. A sailing rhythm and a rhythm of waves.
Log TECLA - 6 February 2013
Sailing into the tropical zone 6-2-2013
6.3kn 430NM to Santiago
Today we sailed into the Tropics. The weather was a bit more tropical today as well. We had sunshine and wind. The wind cooled it down to about 21 degrees, but in the wind shade it got pretty warm! Too much wind for our parasol though.
We have set the big jib again as the wind has decreased a little and turned more to an aft. After the dinner dishes we will get the reef out and set it whole.
Today we did a climbing course, Jurg and Els went up in the rigging, other might wait for a calmer sea to do their first climb. Antonio has been in contact with the mainland of Portugal and also with some people on the Azores, through our MF/HF. His network has been alerted so everybody is listening in!
Log TECLA - 5 February 2013
Sahara sand and sailing
25'17.3N 018'53.9W 18:31 UTC
6.4 knots and 651NM to Santiago (yesterday was to Sal)188 NM from La Gomera
We have been sailing since 00:00 last night. The wind picked up from the north east and we set the mainsail and mizzen again, they had been lowered so they would not get damaged in the waves. The night turned out to be fresh and moist and the morning brought bad visibility and Sahara sand! The whole ship is covered in a yellow/orange glow. Even our new bright white sheet has turned some sort of orange..
The wind picked up this morning and so we reeved the mainsail and changed the big jib for the small jib. Antonio (one of our guests) is a radio hobbyist and has had contact with someone in Italy through MF/HF, who will try and relay a message to his friends in Portugal, so maybe tomorrow we will be in contact with Portugal!
Log TECLA AROUND THE WORL VOYAGE - 4 February 2013
Parasol on the aft
- 27'40.8N 017'33.3W -
6,2 knots - 711 NM
The next leg of our world circumnavigation has now really started! We have left La Gomera this morning after some last shopping (buying a parasol), stretching the legs, a swim for some of us and a futile search for green banana's (plantana's). We were expecting a strong North East wind, but are experiencing very annoying waves from all directions and no wind at all.
Maybe after we pass Hierro we will find the Trade winds, but until then we will have to make do with the engine.
The atmosphere on board is really relaxed and excited at the same time. This afternoon that was displayed by not going to rest in bed when off watch, but staying outside under our new parasol against the sharp sun. A good start of a nice bit of blue water sailing.
Found: Message in a bottle from the Tecla
On the 16th of November The Tecla casted a bottled message in the sea while they were on their way to the Canary Islands. They wrote it wondering where it would go and what adventures it would have while they were wrestling their way through the Bay of Biscay in the middle of November.
The Tecla arrived on Tenerife on the 30th of November with their small group, Jimbo, Jan Willem, Ruben, Nico, Bastie, Gijs, Sam and Jet and had not heard of their bottled message yet. Not knowing it was still plummeting from meters high waves, pulled by the currents and pushed back and forth on the edge of the English Channel, to finally end up on a beach somewhere.
But today they got a message from Alain & Mauricette Lalande that they had found their message about 90 to a 100 miles due East on a beach!
Last-minute discount Tecla!
Book your sailing voyage onboard Tecla now and get last-minute discount! 15% discount on the sailing voyage from Sal (Cape Verden) to Salvador (Brazil) from 17-02-2013 till 12-03-2013. And when you book from Tenerife to Sal onto Salvador, you will have 25% discount!
On the Cape Verden you will visit one or two of the Islands together with the Oosterschelde. The Tecla will set sail on a beautiful ocean crossing, a crossing that will take you from the amazing Cape Verden Islands into the trade winds, hopefully a light wind will take her through the Doldrums, over the Equator and into the South Hemisphere, finishing this trip in Salvador. On the equator you will meet Poseidon and get a new name crossing from North to South! Once in Brazil you can enjoy the white sandy beaches while drinking out of your coconut.
For more information, please mail: info@seasailtraining.com
Oosterschelde shipslog 20/01/2013
The Oosterschelde Shipslog: 20 januari
The sailing voyage to Mindelo on Sao Vicente went very well, except for the tear in the schooner sail (while setting sail). Luckily the harbor master in Mindelo i also a part time sail maker, so before leaving Mindelo we had the repaired sail back on deck. Meanwhile our guests have visited Sao Vicente and Santo Antao, the island across Mindelo. As in the other voyages we made the beautiful walk on the vulcano and a green valley with many palm trees, banana trees, sugar cane and coffee. Meanwhile we have sailed on towards the next island, in the bay of Tarrafal on Sao Nicolau.
Oosterschelde shipslog 14/01/2013 - 15/01/2013
14 januari
Yesterday we said goodbye to one group of guests in the morning and welcomed the new ones in the evening. After waving a very nice group off, we started cleaning for the new arrivals. Also a few crew members go home and are interchanged by others. Therefore we have some extra crew on board on this day. The chefs go to the market for fresh food, the rest of the crew starts cleaning the ship and preparing the cabins for the new guests. Meanwhile we sail from Santa Maria to Palmeira, on the west side of the island Sal, to welcome our new guests in the evening with fresh made soup, and sandwiches. Most of our guests are tired form traveling and go to sleep early, to prepare for the first day of sailing.
15 januari
The next morning there is a heavy wind when we lift the anchor and set sail. There is no rush, we want all the guests to have a good look around on deck and explain everything. After some unsteady starts (due to sea legs), around lunch time all guests are settled down. We sail downwind towards Santiago, where we will arrive in the night.
The Oosterschelde Shipslog 12/01/2013
16°09.62'N, 022°55.45'W. Compass 080. Knots 0,1.
Written by: Tino Kuin
After another beautiful day of sailing we arrived at the island São Nicolau on the 9th of Januari. After anchoring we met up with our friendly guide Toi, who drove our guests around the island in his Toyota Hilux pick-up truck. Apparently 14 people easily fit in a pick-up on this island, so before long we were on our way to beautiful bays, sandy beaches, caves and villages. After seeing the dry and barren south side of the island we were very surprised to find the north side to be very green with a really tropical atmosphere. After enjoying an excellent local lunch we were dropped at a beautiful beach for some cooling down. Back on board of the 'Oosterschelde' we were treated to an incredible rice dish, prepared by our chef Wouter.
The next day promised to be a relaxed day of sailing with lots of sun, little wind and hardly any waves. We tried to sail the 95 nautical miles to Boa Vista in one strech without manoeuvring, in which we almost succeeded. After doing the last bit on the engine we dropped the anchor around 3 AM. The crew prepared the ship for another day of cleaning and maintenance, while the guests enjoyed a relaxing day exploring the island's beautiful beaches.
Invitation New Year’s reception 2013
We would like to invite you for our New Year’s reception
Date:13th of January 2013 Time:16:00 hrs – 19:00 hrs
Location: Baanderij, Belangenvereniging Baanloze Scheepsbouwers
Address: MS van Riemsdijkweg 39, 1033 RC Amsterdam – See location.
Please let us know if you are coming before the 10th January 2013:
info@seasailtraining.com
Tecla shipslog 28 november 2012
33'21.6N 014'30.7W 17:29 UTC 8.8 knots 297 NM to Tenerife
The ships logbook mentions showers and squalls for every entry. Wind is northerly force 5 to 6 in showers sometimes 7. We are trying to head downwind as much as possible, but can course straight for Tenerife because the wind comes to much from the aft. So last night at 4 o'clock we gibed, heading somewhat more to the east. We have less then 300 miles to go and are starting to feel the warmth of the south more and more. During the day we walked around in t shirt and sunglasses. And the wind, although strong, is a warm breeze. Maybe tomorrow we start wearing shorts..!
Tecla Shipslog 27 november 2012
35'59.3N 014'44.8W 17:51 UTC 27-11-2012 5.7 Knots 449 NM to Tenerife
Steady winds is one thing we have not seen today. The wind has been shifting in both strength and direction. We where expecting the wind to turn more to the NNE, so after the first big windshift we gibed only to gibe back again after an hour of making south east. Last night we reeved the mainsail, which was a safe feeling when we had a small squall come over. We hit the 11 knots going down a wave! Every day we get a little closer to the Canary Islands, but it is not very warm yet.
Tecla Shipslog 26 november 2012
38'18.3N 012'33.3W 17:35 UTC 26-11-2012 8.5 knots, 608 miles to go
This morning we took down the main topsail during a small squall and we saw no reason to set it again since then. We are speeding along nicely with 8 to9 knots and are expecting a little more wind this night.
Most of the day we have had sunshine. The water is a beautiful shade of dark blue and lights up during the nights due to fluorescent algae. We saw our first flying fish today! A big one! We thought we would not see them until we had passed the Canary Islands, but there it was flying over a stretch of almost 10 meters! On board everybody is back in their daily watch routine and relaxing, reading books, listening to music or just sitting in the afternoon sun.
Tecla Shipslog 25 november 2012
40'38.3N 010'38.1W 17:35 UTC 25-11-2012 7,5 knots, 770NM to North Tenerife
What a beautiful day it has been, and still is. During dinner time we all sat outside with our Sunday beer watching the sun set in an amazing way!
We are sailing a beam reach, with a speed of 7,5 to 8 knots straight at our goal. All sails are set, but for our mizzen topsail. We have a fishing line cast out, but no fishes yet. During the day we did some small chores in the sun and had a good look at the rigging and chafing spots. We talked at length about how it was going to be during the long crossings, what chores we could do in the sun, wind in our backs and hopefully a bit warmer then now. I am already looking forward to it! Imagin sailing to Brazil!
Tecla Shipslog 24 november 2012
42'44.9N 009'16.7W 17:12 UTC 24-11-2012 7 knots
We have left Concurbion and have set sail again. We are doing around 7 knots in the right direction with about 910 NM to go to Tenerife. We have to be there on the 1st, so we are making haste!
Jan Willem is hoping to do 10 knots, and maybe down a wave we will. Last night we had a fierce howling wind blowing for a few hours.
The waves of his small storm are still here, but seem to be decreasing fast as the wind has turned to the North West. On board everything is well.
We have had some nice time to rest and are happy to be underway again!
Tecla Shipslog 23 november 2012
At anchor in the Bay of Corcubion
As some of you might have noticed we have not sailed the last 2 days. This is due to weather and wind. There was another southwesterly gale coming our way and today a southerly gale expected windspeeds up to 45 knots (9bf). So we are at anchor in a bay, we took in some water yesterday and are now behind 2 anchors in a well sheltered and beautiful bay.
Yesterday Jimbo, Ruben and Jan Willem went for a bus drive to Santiago de Compostella. And today we have slept in and Gijs has his birthday, so a busy day! We hope for the wind to turn to the north tomorrow morning so we can head south again.
Tecla Shipslog 20 november 2012
44'21.6N 009'37.4W 17:34 UTC 20-11-2012
Saying of the day: Wet on the outside, happy on the inside.
Last night the winds increased again, by midnight we had to take down the mainsail and head upwind with only a reeved mizzen, forestaysail and small jib. We did not seem to get anywhere, except to a place called VERY WET! It rained throughout the night, morning and afternoon, then it stopped.. only to start again.
By morning the wind turned and decreased to a point that we could not sail anymore, we turned on the engine and at the watch handover of 16:00 we set the mainsail again, still with reefs in. Now the wind is back, the waves are decreasing, but are still very annoying! But we are sailing, so wet on the outside, but happy on the inside!
Tecla Shipslog 19 november 2012
45'32.9N 009'59.8W 17:47 UTC 19-11-2012
The departure of the Tecla out of Den Helder did not go unnoticed. During a reception on Willemsoord the city council presented us with some gifts, some for us and some to give away as representatives of Den Helder and her harbor.
One of the gifts to keep was a plaque with the shield of Den Helder and a letter from the Mayor. And now on board I find myself re-reading this letter and especially one of the lines in it (translated from Dutch) "For this sportive power measurement between ship, water and wind, you need some courage and willpower, especially when the head winds increase"
Well I think we have gotten to that point now. During the night the wind increased and so did the waves. This morning the wind was up to force 7 gusting 8bf. We took down the jib for some hours until the wind decrease somewhat. Right now the wind is weak, but the warnings for more wind are still coming in.
Everybody on board is doing well, some are experiencing seasickness, not strange in this mingle of NW and W waves. They send their regards to all at home reading this.
We just crossed the 010'W, Enkhuizer zeevaart school eat your heart out, tonight we will turn south.
Tecla Shipslog 18 november 2012
45'35.4N 008'39.1W 17:31 UTC 18-11-2012
This morning we reeved down the mainsail, changed the big jib into the second jib and started the engine because there was no wind. We know that tonight the wind will increase, there are strong wind warnings and this might just be the calm before the storm, but we are ready for it. Now the wind has already increased a little, force 3 from the South West. We are sailing close hauled, 5 knots trying to get some more south, before we tack and head west.
Just an hour ago we spotted the spray of what we thought to be a whale! And now we have finished dinner and enjoyed our Sunday beer with a beautiful sundown.
Tecla Logbook 18 november 2012
47'46.6N 007'09.8W 17:59 UTC 18-11-2012
Waves, sailing, dolphins, rain, sun, wind, no wind we had it all today! What a day it was. We are making very good progress, wind has increased to a force 5 from the NNW, waves are up to 3,5/4 meters at
the most.
The Bay of Biscay is known for her waves and eerie cross seas. Waves build up here, because this is where the Atlantic Ocean ends and the continental shelf begins. The water of the Atlantic is over 2000 meters deep and the waves build up to long rolls off water. When they meet the continental shelf, they get pushed onto a shelf that is only 200 meters deep... that is where big waves are born! And this is where we are right now! 6 miles to go, and then we will truly sail on the first Ocean of our world circumnavigation.
This last hour we have been accompanied by dolphins playing at our bow wave and loving our speed of 8 knots.
Tecla Logbook 16 november 2012
Dinner is done, old traditional Dutch stew with red cabbage and apple and mashed potatoes. AND rice porridge as desert! A well earned meal after a day of good work.
The night watch last night was very dark, we had a reduced visibility of about 2 NM, but you could not even see that there was any fog due to the darkness! The 4 to 8 watch had clearing skies and bright stars again and this morning the sun broke through the clouds and we had a very friendly sunny day! We finished the work on the safety lines which are all up now, a new stay was made on the mizzen and we sailed the whole day!
On board everybody is in a good mood, a happy crew Jimbo calls us. And that happy crew send out a happy message in a bottle today. So if you find that message, please let us know!
Shipslog Tecla - 15 November 2012
Logbook Tecla start worldtour
51*33.8N 002*03.9E 17:30 UTC
We have left Dutch waters and finally it feels like we are really underway, we have really started the world circumnavigation now! And with what a start! As we came out of the locks of IJmuiden we could start sailing straight away. Some where around 02:00 hours we had to start the engine for a while because the current was setting us to the north to much. But this morning we where sailing again.
The weather today was amazing! It was sunny with a light breeze and felt like we were on the Canary Islands already. Some of us even went as far as walking around in t-shirts for a bit!
Yesterday we tested our survival suits, today we got out the safety nets to check and set so that everybody knows how they work. The sea is as flat as a bathtub right now, but as soon as this high pressure area moves, we might be in for some wind.
Tecla around the worldtour
Yesterday we left for the first step in many to come during our global circumnavigation, our sail around the world in the next year and 8 months.
SUMMER OF 2013
Already looking forward to the summer of 2013?
There are several international exchanges you can join during the summer or during the Tall Ships Races in Europe or in Australia. Ask for more information to info@seasailtraining.com so we can sent you several suggestions.
SEE YOU AT SEA!
Tecla winner of the Irish Sea Tall Ships Regatta
After a 24 hour delay at the start off the Irish Sea Tall Ships Regatta, the Tecla started racing from Dublin to waypoint 1 and 2 at 17:05:56 UTC on the 27thof August. We got off with a rough start when a shower hit us with at least 35 knots only 20 minutes into the race. Some of the vessels only got the rain, we got rain and wind. We already had our topsails up, but as we saw the black skies approaching and we saw one of the other vessels changing course drastically we got the topsails down as soon as possible!
This was not the only shower that was going to hit us in the next few days. First day a lot of our Bosco trainees where sick, the short Irish Sea waves got to them. During the next two days the waves only built up more to a really choppy sea. Although sick our trainees kept on going and with every gibe and tack they were there hauling in sheets and pulling on backstays.
The regatta was made up out of waypoints, where each vessel could choose their waypoints and legs best suited for their vessel. The Challenge Wales (this being her first ever STI event) sailed the most miles between the legs, without correction. But with correction the Tecla sailed the most miles and won the Irish Sea Tall Ships Regatta. And with that, prolonged her hold on the Regatta cup off the STI.
The Tecla Crew
SHIPS LOG DANMARK: La Coruña - Dublin
By the time we arrived in La Coruna, I and the rest of the eighty trainees on the Training Ship DANMARK had already been sailing for about a month, first visiting the Faroe Islands and afterward been anchored in Bantry Bay on the west coast of Ireland for a couple of days. We are in the middle of our training to become ordinary Seamen, and going to participate in the last leg of the Tall Ships Races, from La Coruna to Dublin.
We arrived as one of the first vessels to La Coruna, the evening before the official arrival date.
All the days we had in La Coruna, either Port or Starboard watch was ashore, and the other staying on board to do the daily work, polish brass and host open ship arrangements, and then the next day it would be the other way around. The 13th was the day of departure, so as soon as the morning light illuminated the rigging, all hands were busy to get the ship ready, first of all for departure and Parade of Sails, but also for the race afterwards. As we let go the lines, the eighty of us were lined up on port side of the main deck, all wearing the working uniform and a white sailors cap for waving goodbye to the many people who had turned up to watch us leave. We got out of the harbour and started to prepare some sail to be set, unfortunately due to the direction of the wind we could only benefit from staysails, and although we set some square sails as well, we soon had to take them in again.
At the evening muster the captain old us that the race had been delayed 24 hours due to bad weather. We anchored up in a bay with some other vessels. The next day around noon we weighed up the anchor and set the course towards the start line. The race would begin at 19.00 local time, so we had plenty of time getting there.
After dinner all hand was called on deck, to set as many sails as possible in the shortest possible amount of time. We crossed the start line and kept setting sails. At about 10 pm we had set everything the captain would let us set, and those of us who didn't have watches turned in for the night.
When I was woken up at 3.40 am, it was with an order to hurry, since the wind had picked up quite a lot since the evening, and our watch had to help the previous watch take in the topgallants, as it took a lot of people to clew up the sails, and another crew had to be standby in the shrouds, ready to lay on the yard and furl the sail as soon as the yard was lowered all the way down. It took about 1½ hour to take in all three topgallants, as it took a whole watch we could only take in and stowe one at a time. After they had all been taken in, the of going watch turned in, and so did we when we was relieved about half an hour later.
The morning muster was done on the berth deck, due to high amounts of water on the main deck. The watertight doors was opened, making passage through the whole length of the ship and unnecessary passing of the main deck was forbidden, and under no circumstances without being secured to a hand rope stretched along the deck. The watch was kept from under the forecastle, and only the necessary duties were kept. It took up to four people to handle the helm, and the lookout was moved from the forecastle to the galley house rooftop.
After about 48 hours of being beaten in the mighty waves of the Biscay, the weather got milder, and the seas got smaller, although we had a lot of swells for the next day or so until we went up the Saint Georges channel, and was sheltered by Ireland. We were way too early for arrival in Dublin, so we kept heading north past Belfast and through the North Channel, suddenly we were back in the North Atlantic, but in somewhat different conditions than we had experienced until now. The wind disappeared totally, but since we had a lot of time we kept the sails standing and were just adrift in the hands of the strong current. We were adrift for a couple of days, sometimes sailing on very little wind, but most of the time not moving at all. The watches had some easy days and nights with lots of time for practicing sail handling and having stories told by the quartermasters form their various experiences as sailors.
When the time was for it, we took in all sails, started up the engine, and started making headway towards Dublin. The day before arrival we had a "sailors Sunday" where we did not have any classes, but instead had a program with a lot of activities and time for cleaning up our lockers and sort out our clothes and belongings.
Around noon on the day of arrival, we entered the river Liffey after having taken the Pilot on board. We first had to moor at a quay outside the city to get rid of all the garbage that we had gathered on our journey from Spain, and then we had to wait for a bridge to open. while we was at the garbage quay, starboard watch was send ashore by the motorboat, and we on the port watch was staying back to shipshape and help when we had to move the ship later on in the evening.
At 19.50 we let go the lines and was tugged the last stretch into Dublin city. A lot of people had gathered on the pier, and it must have been spectacular to watch beautiful old DANMARK arrive with illuminated rigging and 40 trainees lined up waving and smiling at the spectators on the quay. At least they seemed to enjoy it,
After arrival the captain told us the result of the race, a 5/5 position, so not good enough for a price, but still pretty good for a heavy old vessel like ours.
Now we are bound for our home port of Copenhagen, where we will arrive the 6th of September.
Fair winds!
Andreas Fink Mejlgaard
Shipslog Pelican of London - 21 August 2012
Tue 21.08.2012
Arriving Dublin.
After spending this morning tidying the ship and stowing the sails to get ready for going into Dublin, this afternoon played host to a great activity. The watches were briefed about two things, the main task was in watches. Each watch was given a scenario where someone was injured and they had to work out (and improvise with materials) how to get them onto the poop deck to wait for a helicopter evacuation. One had to deal with someone in the foc’sle Bosun store who had fallen and maybe have a broken back, another had a crew member who had fallen from a top bunk in heavy seas and had a suspected broken neck and the final one was a crew member who had fallen in the showers and after burning his face and falling and breaking his pelvis. Each watch had to work out what materials they needed, how to communicate, who would take control and how the international watches would work together. The mentors sneakily took one person from each watch away to do another activity and then told them, they were the casualty. After 15minutes of discussions, the emergency scenarios started and the crew got to work. Helicopters were ‘called’ and Maydays ‘sent’ via the second mate Karren, whilst the watch used leeboards, sheets and belts to safely remove the casualty from within the ship and manoeuvre them up to the aft deck to be evacuated by the coastguard. The exercise went so well, the crews worked well together (although one watch got a bit hysterical with it all), and two groups led by Thijs and CJ worked so calmly and together to successfully remove the injured crew members. Ben the mate then had a debrief session and the crew reviewed what had happened from Ben whimpering as he slid from the lee board and duvet contraption heading up the stairs and Gabriel who miraculously recovered from a broken neck to grab hold of the support rope of the steps up to the mess room; but the communication and trust shown by each group was amazing to watch. The crew were buzzing afterwards and having learned so much from our Dutch lifeboat volunteers, Ben and Karren helped the crew to understand how difficult these things are and what to do if it really happen.
Amidst all of this, Jantsje took a number of voyage crew off to show them how to evacuate if their cabins were filled with smoke (they were blindfolded to give them a real challenge! They learned about how to safely move through the ship and blinked wildly as they arrived on deck in the sunshine!
This evening we arrived in Dublin to much cheering and shouting from the shore, Daire, Greg and Cameron’s parents lined the bridge and later the quay side taking pictures and screaming with pride! Daire’s little sister is as loud as she is!! Warming up our voices, we shouted ‘Peli Peli Peli... Can Can Can’ led by vocal Yaz the Bosun’s mate, she led us through singing, mexican waves, songs of ‘life on Pelican... we can’t wait for the crew parade on Friday! It’s great to be in port, but a little sad to say the sailing is done for another voyage. Now’s the time to get out, see Dublin and get ready for the Tall Ships Dublin Festival as it starts tomorrow!
Adventures under sail... Oh yes indeed! Now time for adventures on land!
Shipslog Pelican of London - 20 August 2012
Log book 20.08.2012
MAIN WATCH
Busy day today preparing to come into anchor this evening. The day started with a light breeze and sunshine, meaning... deck scrub time! Two watches, a Bosun’s Mate with a fire hose and loads of buckets, we set to scrubbing the ship down!
A great sailing day in the Irish Sea today, with all the square sails set plus the Fore Gaff, Staysail and Jib. 8knots, sunshine and a good breeze, We set the spanker this morning as the winds were light and then as they built up we had to hand it. A seal came to say hello off the stbd quarter this afternoon. Lots of lively chatter around the deck again, and reading books and music were out in force today.
Big event of the day was the boat races. The brief ‘here is a small piece of wood with a screw in it. You must construct a boat to pull along the deck in a competition...any materials can be used, but you must ask the B and BM permission’. Who followed the design brief... er no-one! Main watch won with their wood calved Pelican (which has been donated to the ship) Thijs, Joost and Gabriel spent hours in the workshop shaping our watch masterpiece and then during our 2000-0000 watch everyone took a turn to sand it off! Fore watches second boat being attacked by octopus, Mizzen watches flannel pelican with flappy wings! No one made a boat per say but they were all good fun!
This afternoon we handed all sails and anchored in a bay near Howth, near Dublin. Cameron and Greg’s parents appeared in a motor boat to bring the coveted ‘Tayto’ crisps and cans of Guinness for the crew. We had a lot of boats coming to see us and shouting ‘Welcome to Ireland’
Within the hour we were joined by the RNLI Howth lifeboat, they came along side for practice, (we scored them out of 10 with numbered sheets of papers for their parking!). The lifeboat tied up alongside allowing voyage crew to go on board (including our Dutch lifeboat crew) and vice versa.
Tonight was Spanish Dinner time with chicken, pastries, fish, pasta, salad on deck this evening, so everyone sat out in the well deck talking, eating and then having a drink with the crew. Afterwards the Spanish trainees did their presentation – our young crew took in turns explaining how the country is divided into regions and which islands are attached, the group are from Catalonia and they talked much about that! They showed a video of the traditional dance ‘Sadana’ and shared Carquinyolis biscuits with the rest of the crew. We also learned about the Pati Catala, a wooden boat that sails like a catamaran and uses weight of the sailor to really drive it.
Gabriel came up with an American presentation, his props... a board marker to draw a map of the USA on his belly showing where he’s from in California and how many Americans are descended from Europeans shaping everything from food to music.
After presentations, it was time to clear up and chill out. The permanent crew took anchor watches and it’s time to relax and play games... cue games of Twister! Best dressed participants were definitely the Bosun’s Mate, Cooks Assistant and Watch Leader dressed as penguins.
Shipslog Pelican of London 19 August 2012 crew
19th August: Fore watch
Today has been a busy day with many things happening, the biggest one being – we have finished the race! This afternoon during the 1230-1600 watch, we sailed very close to the Eastern waypoint to cross the line with much relief after our Biscay adventure. After a bright and starry night and some guidance from the mate Richard on which stars were which, we saw in the day with the dolphins that had accompanied us through the night.
Reinier (mess man for the day) “Today, I was on mess duty. I was cleaning and drying up a lot of mugs and plates, and spoons. We served a normal breakfast and for lunch we had pizza and salad. Dinner was spaghetti and dessert was rice pudding. The spaghetti was particularly tricky to serve, I did drop one on one of my watch! I learnt plenty about cooking today. It felt like Italian day today with the menu!
The murder game continues today and Cameron our resident serial killer was killed with a can of diet coke by the 1st mate’s cabin, sending our assassins back into hiding.
Ailbhe: Watch this morning was fun! Anna and I practiced our yodeling with the song from the sound of music and then she told us a riddle that took the most part of the rest of the watch to figure it out. We saw land for the first time today so Wales and not whales!
Before lunch today, we were making our messages in bottles, we launched all three at 13.32 at 51?43.190N, 6?17.543W. Contained within were poems, pictures, stories and At Sea’s contact details in the hope that they’re found! After this, the Bosun issued our wooden blocks for the boat race tomorrow. As a watch we have to design and build our ‘boats’ and race them across the deck tomorrow afternoon using string and other items from the Bosun.
Cameron: Sail training from the crew continued today, first we had a hands on lesson in sail setting from our brilliant Bosun Jez. This was followed by a lesson in navigation and chart work by our stupendous second mate Karen. This lesson led to a competitive inter-watch quiz, in which we placed 2nd (respectable). The sun finally shone on our rivals/shipmates main watch as they took Pelican over the line, we thought Kyle s luck may have been changing until the clouds came in and the drizzle started coming down. Should be in Dublin by midnight tomorrow (back home for me).
Sinead (WL): One mile to the finish line was announced at half three today, and most of the watch were up on deck to see it. Anna and I made our way right to the front to earn the prestigious title of first across the finish line! Tonnes of dolphins today (as ever) and sleep deprivation seems to be making all of us obnoxiously jolly. So much laughter, singing and fun on Fore Watch.
Anna: After the almost excitement of crossing the finish line, we had a surprisingly wakeful (and musical) watch. Our previous efforts at a message in a bottle had been deemed inappropriate by the powers that be (quite right too... the powers that be!) so we attempted a replacement with a (nearly) rhyming poem. Daire hated it.
Ben: Planning on several cheeky watch sleeps tomorrow, other than that, I do believe everything has been covered. A note to mention to the sleep specialists, wherever they might be: how is it that the half an hour nap I had yesterday was more rewarding, rest wise, than the 7 hours of solid sleep I got this morning?! That is all.
Montse: This morning, because today is Sunday we had a cleaning inspection by the captain. He went into each room looking for dust, dirt and folded clothes. They told us that it is typical in English ships culture on Sundays.
So in all, a busy and fun day for all, the mobile phone signal kicked in again after dinner this evening and so our crew eagerly awaits news from home and exam results from Ireland and England... fingers crossed. We have talked much about universities, colleges, futures and life since Wednesday, let’s hope everyone gets what they want/ need. Here’s to Dublin and evolved sea legs!
That’s it for this evening Fore Watch and TS Pelican out!
Shipslog Pelican of London 18 August 2012
MIZZEN WATCH
Roisin, Luke, Connor, Tirsa, Aliesa, Lizzie, Rafa, Alba, Eimear, Jantsje
Last night, we started practice for our choral watch. Singing is a great activity to combine with steering and lookout jobs. Occasionally, we inspired the next watch: they are practicing dances while being clicked on to each other with the harnesses. Finally, after a short hiatus, during the storm, there has been progress in the murder game: Kyle died! And so did Ben, the hot one. Didn t he notice the green cloak hanger that suddenly appeared in the wheelhouse? He couldn t resist Karren s request to help her navigating inside the wheelhouse, when Jantsje attacked him in the back with the cloak hanger… We also managed to finally have a full watch, the first one ever! Alba joined our watch after being sick for the last 5 days. Strangely it also seems as though everyone changed their clothes 3 times today: first in their full wet gear with harnesses on watch, second in their shorts enjoying the sun and finally with something a little warmer. We have also collected a few more words for our watch dictionary:
Wuddeling = cuddling on watch
Hirting = heavy flirting
All our photos are now looking spectacular since all the sails have finally been put up! On top of this the sun came out! The dolphins arrived and romance was in the air! Our watch started foggy and early at 8 in the morning and set the royal sail. This afternoon when the sun came out we climbed up the rigging, for many a second chance to go to the tops, for others the chance to climb all the way to the Royal. Luke filmed the whole trip aloft as he had brought his head-camera, he will edit it and put it online for us later. Ben planked at the top of the royal yard. And Greg managed to do the owl on the topgallant yard! (There might be pictures around).
I am not entirely sure what has happened to the ship today, but everyone is in giggle mode, apart from First Mate Richard who came up with a very serious task on the bowsprit… Eventually it turned out to be a sightseeing trip for dolphins, there were at least eleven of them (Aliesa counted!); Although, Rafa scared us half to death by shouting shark shark after every ten shouts of dolphins! He learns more English words every minute, it seems, whether they are relevant is debatable. Nearly everybody who could, managed to get sun burnt, but spirits weren t dampened as everyone’s shoes are finally dry! Some even dared to go sockless! Today has been an interesting mix of nationalities; we had fish and chips for lunch, which is English of course. There was an Irish presentation as well, although everyone thinks it was yesterday – it has been a long day now we come to think of it! Cameron explained the origin of the flag, Eimear was so kind to show Ireland on the globe and there was Irish food too (Tayto crisps and Chocolates)! Of course we had the Irish meals of our great cook Dave a couple of days ago (He foresaw that fried eggs on a moving ship would be quite difficult to realize); They also explained the sports Irish people play. After dinner, after the watches were challenging each other with press ups and sit ups, we played a typically Dutch game where you eat cake dangling from string with your eyes closed, eventually it was put on plates for us to eat (it was ginger cake)! We should be crossing the finish line soon enough –oh more dolphins! The crew managed to repair all the sails that were damaged, and we set them. This is a more enjoyable sailing now. We have started a small 4 languages dictionary and we are planning to add 10 words to it every day, so by the end of the trip we may be multilingual! You can hear people teaching each other words and sayings during most night watches.
A great day, here s to another tomorrow!
Shipslog Pelican of London 17 August 2012 crew
MAIN watch - 17.08.2012
Jantsje s birthday!
Life returns to the Pelican today.
After a good breakfast this morning (bacon today, the cook wanted to make English scrambled eggs, but he said the eggs would’ve scrambled themselves as Pelican rolled so much). We were sailing along at 4 knots this morning with still one sail set; Captain Dave gave a morale boost talk this morning, as the weather has been bad and the crew have been unwell, but it was all beginning to settle down and by the evening the rain has stopped finally.
It rained so much last night that our things were still very wet throughout the day, but the dolphins that joined us last night during the 2000-0000 watch made up for it. Our wake up calls are becoming quite funny now, as Renier comes in at 0330 and asks you if you re on watch… half asleep we re never sure! The crew mended the sails that were damaged in the storms this morning, the gaff and topsail. We were able to set both sails during our watches today.
During our watch, we played the countries game. The murder game is still going with the crew working together to plan the next one. Fore watch Ben is being set up as the next target on the bridge with the implement hidden in the wheel house… we ll see how long he ll last! Our second watch today found us in the Celtic sea, with Ireland is sight. Our watch set the fore gaff today. And with the sails set we were making 5knots, everyone has steered twice today on a course 30degrees off the wind on the stern. The watch are helping each other even more now; Thijs is one of the best helm instructors working with all of the different nationalities onboard, after their instruction yesterday the Spanish girls Berta and Joana are steering very well, supporting each other too. It s gusting only 25knots today too (rather than the 50 from two days ago). After our second watch we braced the yards and then set the topsail before it was time to get our harnesses off and go to the mess room to talk about our day. After treating us to drinks after a difficult watch yesterday, Kyle gave us all chocolate to celebrate setting sails and having a good watch! Everyone is much happier now the finish line is approaching and we may sail to Waterford before Dublin, we are excited to maybe see another Irish port before we finish the voyage next week.
We found today that our watch leader knows way too many cheesy English songs that he s trying to teach us, mentor Kirsty was trying to teach us Singing in the Rain with actions – we may have to use that on the way into port! Gabriel is the dancer of the watch, testing moves like the sprinkler which makes Berta laugh lots, and trying to make a compilation of different moves from every country! Think we might have to do a Eurovision Dance contest as well as singing. The last few people who were sick are getting better and mealtimes are getting more chatty again, at the end of our watch we did the Macarena dance and then congaed off the bridge laughing.
Thijs was on the mess today, and it was very difficult today as the ship rolled so much, but he did really well joined by two Irish trainees. For lunch we had jacket potatoes and Chili or beans (easy food with big seas!) and by dinner time (beef, rice and green beans) the ship wasn t rolling so much and the gravy stayed on the plates!
The dolphins have returned in time for us to go to bed after a good day. We have some games to play tomorrow and presentations from the crew to tell us about where they live.
Shipslog Pelican of London 16 August 2012
16th August
GALE DAY…again and Action for All.
Although the winds eased this morning, allowing the numbers joining breakfast to increase, the conditions have changed in that the sun has gone and the rain has arrived. The crew set about repairing the Topsail sheets damaged in the night yesterday. Once successfully done, the crew set the Course and Topsail, increasing our speed and putting us back in the race. Fore watch managed the heads and showers part of the happy cleaning hour this morning, before attempting the restore the cabins, saloon and mess room back to ‘normal’ after the carnage of the last 24hours. Cabinets had emptied, bookstores and cupboard contents had escaped and the crew worked together to restore the ship. During the 12-4 watch this afternoon, the winds started to build again, but the steering lessons continued. With Dutch trainee Thijs providing excellent steering skills the night before taking time to teach the English and Irish trainees how to steer and supervising them brilliantly for an hour or so. This was followed by him being joined by Montse to support our young Spanish crew to do the same. An excellent example of how quick the learning is here and how amazingly supportive our international crew are of each other. Before the watch ended, the strong winds returned with a vengeance, the fore gaff halyard gone, course clew lines both snap, the mainmast topsail looking likely to go again, we hand the gaff and square sails as the winds once again reach 45knots leaving us running on single headsail. The crew have been excellent and amidst the severe weather and seasickness across a large portion of the crew, they worked as a team with the permanent crew today to hand a number of sails in horrendous conditions. As we prepare for another night at sea, the rolling is easing and the wind is too. The crew of the Pelican have bonded in a way they didn’t expect, through sickness and difficult conditions and a series of firsts, being swamped, being soaked, laughing, sharing and really challenging themselves. Dinner this evening was the first for many days where laughter and chatter filled the mess room. Here’s to the Bay of Biscay being crossed tonight.
Shipslog Pelican of London 15 August 2012
15th August
GALE DAY!
Well, after a calm start, it was the late hours of the night and early hours of this morning that brought wind, heavy seas and lots of sea sick crew members! The crew battled on through the night to hand sails, steer the ship, keep a good look out and keep a watchful eye on each other. Only the duty watch was allowed on deck and because of the severe rolling due to heavy seas most of the crew have retreated to cabins to ride the storm out – the forecast says it should be easing in the next 12-18 hours). In the night, the mainmast topsail sheets failed, meaning permanent crew going aloft to stow the sail in order to make repairs tomorrow if and when the wind eases. Today we are now sailing under the jib, staysail and fore gaff The weather conditions have made it very tricky for many, with force 8/9 gusting to force 10 accompanied by very heavy seas…Highest gust so far 54knots, wave height 4-5m. The sun came out for the afternoon, so despite the sheer size of the waves (we have pictures!) and wind strength, many were able to take the hourly watches on and relax (whilst clipped on and rolling away on the ship) sharing yet another new experience with those around… for some it was lookout, others was talking about their experiences so far, for others it was the sight of the rails and rising seas to be sick on! By the end of the day we are in 10th position, with Irish and Dutch trainees providing amazing helmsman services in the difficult conditions, learning to sail on the wind and maintain a good course.
Shipslog Pelican of London 14 August 2012
14th August
IRISH DAY
Morning prep, depart 11am, fuel and motor for race start 1900
As our crew has many nationalities, we are aiming to have days dedicated to each one and today was the chance for the Irish. By breakfast time, the mess room and well deck of the ship was decorated with Irish flags and black pudding, eggs and potato cakes were on offer. Breakfast chatter was filled with the explanations to everyone else about what black pudding actually was and when it is eaten. The flags provided a regular reminder throughout the day of one of the many strong aspects of the voyage, even the cook, Irish born, was delighted to have the flags around, explanations of the colours, some traditions and songs. After the delayed race start, it was confirmed the race would start this evening at 1900, and our requirement for water and fuel before heading out to sea dictated the next few hours. Once away, the ship was prepared for sea and the training continued, with sail handling practice, yard bracing amongst after refuelling and aiming for the race start. The morning gave us the chance to get another game started, ‘Murder Game’ or ‘Killer’ as it’s known on-board. Each trainee picks from a hat, a name of a crew member (including the captain), a location on the ship and an item to carry, and each crew member then must set about ‘Killing’ off the remaining crew. By mid-afternoon the death toll increased on-board, resulting from attacks with Shampoo bottles on the gangway, forks on the poop deck, even Patrick O’Brien’s book ‘Master and Commander’ was responsible for the death of the engineer! The game continues as crew members drop like flies! (The conspiracy amongst the whole crew to with the dead supporting the living to kill off the remaining crew is a little worrying!). To continue our Irish theme day, lunch of Irish Beef Stew with Guinness and potatoes went down a storm with everyone on-board!
With the race start approaching, the ship was prepared to start sailing, setting the Course, Topsail, T’gallant, Staysail, Jib and fore gaff, engine off and visited by dolphins, we then sailed across the line around 1915 accompanied by Guayas, Stavros S Niarchos, Lord Nelson, Pogoria and the other members of the fleet. Main watch took the helm and we are underway. Irish presentations with ‘Taytos’ and Chocolate have been delayed due to increasing wind speeds and growing swell, not so much luck for the Irish this evening!
Shipslog Pelican of London 13 august 2012
13th August
Sea prep/ training
Eve – ashore
This day started early, with a 6.30am wake up call for an early breakfast for everyone, followed by Captains welcome and introductions of the permanent and volunteer crew. Training our new crew took priority today and each watch in turn got their harnesses and waterproofs, learned about the watertight doors, how to steer the ship from the 2nd Mate Karen and finally basic seamanship from Bo’sun Jez. With planned departure at midday we squeezed huge amounts into the morning to allow time for fuelling and prep for the race start. Then the call from race control the race start is being postponed due to bad weather. So, down to lunch from Dave the cook, before recommencing training in the afternoon. As TS Pelican has both fore and aft rig sails and Squares, the crew learned about bracing the yards and were able to practice before being allocated positions whilst under sail. With the mix of nationalities, additional explanations in Spanish and Dutch from the mentors eased the process, before the watches then took more responsibility for explanations within their own watches. Climbing up and over also took place this afternoon, allowing all trainees the chance to experience aloft before putting out to sea. With training completed for another day, harbour watches were again put in place, with Watch Leaders and Youth Mentors sharing the load overnight accompanied by a trainee each hour. As time was shorter for shore leave this evening, the crew were set a challenge, 3 things based on La Coruna, firstly to find something from or that represented La Coruna (without spending any money or stealing!), a Historical fact about the city to share with the crew later and one other fact or interesting thing to share. As the group went shore side, the ship became quiet until the Spanish trainees brought out a pack of cards. It wasn’t long before other members of the crew joined and gradually a group of 15 or so trainees from each nation were learning an English game, led by Irish trainees, with Spanish cards (which also needed explanation) and Dutch participants to finish it off. A great finish to a very busy day!
Shipslog Pelican of London 12 August 2012
12th August
Crew join 1700 training start. Welcome briefings from our 3rd Mate/ sailing master/ liaison officer about life on-board, from the basics of how the ships heads work to ensuring the crew stay clean but without washing massive amounts of water back out to sea. Life on-board a tall ship is a first for many of the voyage crew that have joined us, indeed just one of many ‘firsts’ they’ll experience in the next fortnight. Once the essential ‘life on board’ chat was over, it was a chance for all the crew to meet, greet, learn names and adjust to being part of an international crew. With trainees from Spain, Ireland, England and the Netherlands the voyage crew warmed up their vocal chords with a quick game of alphabetical countries, starting with Angola, bouncing the ball across the deck to be followed by ‘Belgium’ and so on. With the faces looking worried as we approached X, the crew helped each other out to speed the process. Feeling confident about throwing a tennis ball around the deck of a tall ship, we started to get to know the group as a whole, with three things: 1. Name, 2. Where from and 3. A random or peculiar thing about themselves. Every 5/6 person we stopped went back shouting the names, from Dutch crew hoping to cure cancer, to the 3rd Mate with a ‘small’ role in the Harry Potter film, Basketball players, able to bend fingers or legs in weird positions (demonstrations provided!) the crew got to know each other on the first evening. With all trainees settled into cabins and training finished for the day, the crew ventured ashore being issued with harbour watch times before they left. Slowly as they returned with snacks and things for their night watches, the fireworks started at midnight and made a great finish to a busy and long travel day for many. As harbour watches began, mixed up ages and nationalities a chance to share language and experience has already begun.
Shipslog Pelican of London 16 August 2012 crew
FORE WATCH
Much too early start this morning with the plan to leave port later – but such plans were scuppered by the normal British weather (even in Spain!) delaying the start of the races.
So we had a training day in port where we learned names for the sails, climbing, helming and bracing – all under the watchful eyes of Spaniards.
Generous donations to our ship courtesy of the coca cola stand opposite, included; crates of Fanta, tonic water, ice tea, juices, cardboard seagull and kit bags – alas no brand- awareness lighthouse or bike. Not for want of trying.
SHIPS LOG PELICAN OF LONDON – St Malo to Lisbon
On our way to St Malo on the 7th of July I had no idea of what to expect for the next two weeks, the only thing I knew is that my brother and I were going to be like when we were kids going off on holidays together but this time it wasn’t the scouts, nor the horse ridding camp we enjoyed so much it was something new something different we were going to board on the Pelican Of London, we were going to do something we both loved SAILING but in a way we had never done before, all I knew is that I was looking forward to the adventure that was coming.
When we reached St Malo was when I realized the extent of the adventure I was about to start the ships that surrounded me were surreal. Our crew started well by winning the Crew Parade which immediately set the atmosphere that was going to be on the Pelican Of London for the upcoming two weeks. Chants such as Peli Peli Peli CAN CAN CAN never stopped which showed me that we had picked the perfect ship to sail on!
Life on the Pelican Of London has thought me so many things. It has thought me how to overtake my fears. I remember the first time I went up aloft, I thought I had probably one of the most beautiful view you could ever imagine having, but I also thought I need to go back down now since we were in the middle of the Bay of Biscay and the sails kept coming towards us and back again. I did force myself to go back up but this time around there was no fear, when I was up there everything felt perfect and nothing could change that feeling. It has also thought me many skills such as communication skills, but also how to work as a team. These were thought to me by setting sails, adjusting sails, being on lookout, but also by general life on board.
From the beginning we were split up into three watches, the people from your watch were the people you were going to sleep, eat, and breathe with. They were the people you were going to be with 24/7. I was lucky to be in main watch a watch made up of Australian, Norwegian, Portuguese, Suisse, English ,Canadian people. We were a group that bonded from the beginning; we got through the hard start together by helping each other and caring for each other which made us closer than any other group on board. We never stopped having fun and laughing even during the rough patches such as a force 7 storm from our 4-8am watch while we knew well that instead of going towards Lisbon we were heading towards Greenland. We always seemed to enjoy our Happy Hour together by playing games while doing it as well as putting blasting Bob Marley on which always seemed to end into a disco in our cabin. Also after a few days on board we managed to have many jokes together such as somebody getting stuck in the bathroom locks and having to scream “I’m Stuck” so one of her roommates would come and untangle her.
Together we also learned that the lifestyle on board is very different from our normal lifestyle. As the ship felt like it was almost parallel to the water everything had to done differently, sleeping for me was in a standing up position, we learned never to let our plates go while eating after seeing some ones lasagna fly onto some bodies lap one day. Sleeping patterns where completely changed due to watches. Even walking from your bunk to the bathroom which was one step away became a challenge. But this lifestyle might have been though and might have created many bruises but at the end it has created a lot more laughter than pain. During our trip we also learned to work in the galley which consisted of washing dishes and setting the table as well as do anything the cook wanted you to do during the day.
We sailed for 9days that were full of ups and downs I will always remember when I saw dolphins and whales for the first time but the feeling of accomplishment when we arrived to the finish line is probably the one I will remember the most! The feeling that we finished the race together as a team through our ups and downs we made this voyage a trip that I know I will always remember.
Thank you so much to the Sultanate of Oman Bursary Scheme for giving me the opportunity of living such an unbelievable experience. I would never have been able to live such a wonderful experience without you generosity. But also thank you to the one and only Wonderful Pelican crew thank you for taking all of us onboard of your beautiful ship and making sure we live an experience we will never forget! Thank you!
Ella Guionneau
SHIPSLOG LORD NELSON - 7 August 2012
Location: at sea/anchor.
Weather: Light winds and lots of sun.
What a beautiful morning. The sun is shining, as we sailed along accompanied by a pod of dolphins with baby dolphins. A fantastic photo moment.
We headed towards the harbour of Marin, and anchored just off the main beach just on the coast. It was nice to be away from the crowds, and we took the opportunity to swim from the ship.
In the evening a massive barbeque was prepared on the back of the ship, and we all enjoyed a good party, and good food.
SHIPSLOG LORD NELSON - 6 August 2012
Location: At sea.
Weather: Still no wind.
Set off under motor north towards Spain. Despite there being no wind, the sea had a swell which was unpleasant and had many people reaching for the sick bags. Not nice. But, in good spirits they carried on, helping with jobs around the ship, and by the afternoon we had turned to run with the little wind there was, and could put the sails up. We had a lovely nights sail after this.
SHIPSLOG LORD NELSON - 5 August 2012
Location: Leixoes (suburbs of Porto), Portugal
Weather: almost no wind at all.
After breakfast the crew went ashore to the beach for a swim in the sea and they came back saying it was very cold.
Once back on the ship, it was more food, then an explanation of the ropes, tackle, coiling, going aloft and bracing. Ready to sail the next day.
In the evening the crew enjoyed group games.
SHIPSLOG LORD NELSON - 4 August 2012
Location: Porto, Portugal
Weather: Cloudy but warm, especially during the day.
Today was the first day aboard the Lord Nelson for the International Youth Exchange group. Lord Nelson is one of the most amazing tall ships of the world. Everybody arrived safely at the ship and we were introduced to the captain and the rest of the crew. We also got divided into watches and met our watch leaders.
After a great dinner we went to the quayside and did two games that helped us know more about each other. We did a sort of name game and we talked in pairs about ourselves; then one of us had to recount what we learned about our partner. It was fun.
In the morning I still had to do the gangway watch from 4am to 6 am. It was hard but fun registering the logbook and making rounds to look for the mooring lines, an potential fire or somebody getting into the ship... none of the above happened.
Rui
Shipslog Pelican of London - St. Malo to Lisbon
Voyage Report – Rebecca Kuehn
T.S. Pelican of London
Tall Ships Race
Race 1: Saint Malo, France to Lisbon, Portugal
It was a grey and grizzly afternoon when I arrived in the harbour of Saint Malo on the 7th of July. I had never seen so many Tall Ships in one place, and the spectacle was amazing. All the ships lined the docks with their colourful flags fluttering in the breeze, and people crowded the quay looking at the vessels of all different sizes from all over the world. Young people with big packs and overwhelmed expressions were walking along the dock trying to find their ship, as it was joining day of Race 1 of the Tall Ships Races, a fourteen-day race from Saint Malo to Lisbon.
I was joining the T.S. Pelican of London, a mainmast barquentine based in Weymouth, UK. I was one of 24 trainees aged between 16 and 29 years from all over the world that would learn to sail this tall ship through the Bay of Biscay to Lisbon. Our trip together as a crew began well, as we won the award for the Best Crew in the crew parade due to our antics as pirates through the streets of Saint Malo. Our motley crew then had to learn how to sail our ship in the Class A division of the race, all 1,035 nautical miles to Lisbon.
The real challenges of the voyage began once we had left the harbour behind. All the trainees were placed into watches. I was part of Main Watch, under watchleader Nigel from Canada. I was joined by 7 other young people from all over Europe, including France, Italy, the UK, Switzerland, Norway and Portugal. Together we learnt to support each other as we all found our ‘sea legs’ and pushed through any initial sea sickness. All trainees took a few days to get into the rhythm of the running of a tall ship, with watches on duty for 4 hours and then ‘off’ duty for 8 hours. Together we all learnt how to take the helm, either steering by the wind or from a compass, and of course how to name, set and stow the sails.
The number of sails, ropes and sailing terms took time for us to learn. The sail setting and tacking exercises required teamwork, communication skills and often a fair amount of diplomacy. Added with lumpy seas from the beginning and the variety of languages onboard, the sail training exercises were always unique and educational exercises. It was really enjoyable to get to know the ship’s rigging, and how to best ‘tweak’ the sails to get the most speed for the ship. Whilst on watch we would often adjust the sails and then run back to the bridge to see if it had made any difference – perhaps 0.2 knots faster just by pulling harder on a piece of rope!
I especially enjoyed climbing aloft and working high in the rigging. Our early departure from Saint Malo meant that we had not climbed the rigging when the ship was stationary, and so the whole crew had a sharp introduction to the pleasures of ‘hanging on’ and getting the work done. Climbing up to gasket sails and tacking the ship in high winds really brought home the immense power of the wind and sails, and it was amazing to be part of a sailing race and know all the young people onboard were learning and working together to make things happen.
The voyage was a great opportunity to get to know people from different countries, as we all began as strangers and had to work and live together – there was no way of getting off the boat or away from each other!
Everyday life onboard was very different to normal; eating, sleeping and showering all had to be done with the ship keeled over at 15 degrees, leading to many bruises and an occasional loss of lasagne into someone else’s lap. Each of us also took turns in the galley, which involved everything from peeling potatoes, washing up and serving meals. In our ‘off’ duty time when we weren’t required on deck, in the galley or at talks on navigation we could crash in a heap in our bunks or relax in the saloon in the stern and play games, read or watch a movie. We also took part in many ‘Happy Hours’ where the ship was cleaned inside and out, leading inevitably to good old scrubbing the decks!
The race itself began once we had cleared the English Channel and had to make our way under sail-power alone to Portugal. The first few days gave us fair winds and good progress. However later in the week the winds turned, forcing us to tack and head towards Greenland, and into a storm. We experienced rain and near gale force winds (Force 7) which made night watches more memorable to say the least, and called for more encouragement and support of each other through the rough weather. It could also have been quite demoralising to be sailing in the opposite direction in a race, but I was impressed with how our team kept our heads up and faces smiling, still enjoying the sailing and each other’s company. This taught me the real value in persevering even when everything seems to be against you.
Once the rough weather was over and we had tacked back towards Lisbon, we were able to leave the Bay of Biscay behind and catch a northerly wind south down the Portuguese coast. We were also lucky enough to see dolphins and whales, and the weather became sunnier and hotter the more south we went, and we finally crossed the finish line 9 days after we left St Malo, coming 9th out of 11 ships in our class.
I will never forget arriving in Lisbon. I was on the topsail yardarm as we motored under the bridge to come into the harbour, and the feeling of finishing the race as a team with all the other trainees onboard and the unbelievable view was amazing. Similar to Saint Malo, all the Tall Ships moored along the docks in preparation for a couple of days of activities provided for the crews by Lisbon, including canoeing, football, concerts, orientation challenges, another crew parade, and of course, the crew party!
Leaving the ship to come back to Australia and my usual university life on the morning of the 21st of July was hard – the last 2 weeks had been educational, fun, challenging and a wonderful break from my studies. My time onboard Pelican has also been inspirational as I watched those around me overcome their individual challenges, and it was fantastic to see others develop more confidence, teamwork and leadership skills and markedly improve in their English- in just a short time. I really admire Tall Ship sailing and its ability to bring about such positive changes in young people.
This unforgettable voyage would not have been possible for me without the support of the Sultanate of Oman Bursary Scheme, the Paul Canter Bursary, and the Australia-Britain Society, and I wish to thank you for your kind generosity and advocacy of tall ship sailing and youth development. I also wish to thank Rear Admiral Rothesay Swan, who’s initial and immediate support and enthusiasm really made me believe this voyage could become a reality. My trip was also made all the more fantastic by the crew of the Pelican, and all the other trainees onboard my voyage – thank you!!
Shipslog Bark Europa - Wednesday 25th July
LOG FOR WEDNESDAY 25th JULY
Today was a little bit of work followed by lots of fun which was great. After breakfast we split into groups and working in our teams we managed to make the ship very clean, deckhouse, library, all the decks and all the cabins. Working together makes the cleaning enjoyable and of course it gets done quicker, especially when the music is playing loud all around the ship.
After coffee and cookies it was time to get into new groups to prepare for the egg drop game. First we had to make a plan, then chase the crew for all the bits and pieces we needed to make our egg safe when it was thrown from the foremast. We presented the science of our device to the whole crew before throwing the eggs as far as we could. Unfortunately two landed in the sea (which had to be collected) and one nearly hit Andy on the head which was funny to see him running for his life.
As for the rest we carefully unpacked them and three eggs had survived their adventure but not for long as they were smashed over peoples heads and the deck got into a bit of a mess. So it was time to clean again but no one minded as we had a lot of laughs and even the crew got wet into the process.
Joost and Brit then organised us into one big group and we played the penguin game which was funny and made us all very hot jumping up and down. The swim that followed afterwards was a great way to cool down and a lot of the boys showed off their acrobatics jumping off the ship.
The barbeque was beautiful but our party was interrupted as we had to go into the port of Cadiz early but we had a wonderful welcome from thousands of people on the quayside and when we were safely moored Rood the mate and DJ continued the music and we danced in front of the envious people well past midnight, a great end to a great day
WHITE WATCH
Shipslog Antwerp Flyer - 26th July 2012
Finished
This situation remained till late at night, when the wind turned to SE and gained force again. We finally crossed the finish line at 10:09 Tuesday morning.
Shipslog Bark Europa - 24th July
Log for Wednesday 24th July
Today, we reached for the skies. We tried to accomplish this by climbing up the rigging!
Most of us had already been to the first platform, above the first sail, which is about 10 metres high. Today, we took it to the next level. Literally, by climbing higher! Since we have arrived in Cadiz around 6? this afternoon the boat was anchored and the sails had to be furled (which is a fancy word for tying them up). You do this by climbing up the rigging until you reach the yard of the sail that needs furling. The highest yard that we got to was about 26? metres high. There’s a sail that’s even higher, but there wasn’t any rigging leading up to it, and since we didn’t want to fall, we let the crew handle that. Then we proceeded by climbing to the end of the yard. We found this a bit tricky (and sometimes scary) because we had to balance on a cable while pulling up the sails, but the view was great!
The other great thing that happened today was that we finished the race! We passed the imaginary line, and everybody was deafened by the sound of the horn of the ship. We made it! And even though we don’t know our placement yet, it is still an accomplishment and we have a feeling that we have done very well!
It’s getting dark now and we can see the city of Cadiz from the ship. Soon, the night watches will begin where we will be preparing for the crew parade in Cadiz. We actually have to participate in this now, so goodbye!
Edit the morning after: instead of working, certain members of the crew, decided to go for an evening dip! We found the water quite warm, but the Spanish girls just looked in disgust because they were used to much hotter seas. ¡Adios!
Steffie & Robin
Shipslog Gulden Leeuw - 22/23 July 2012
Logbook – Team 2 (blue)
Day 1 –22nd/ 23rd july
We departed Falmouth at 8 pm the evening before in order to reach Amsterdam on schedule, this due to low winds. Before leaving the docks an abandon ship drill was undertaken with survival suits. Our watch was the first of the evening from 10-12pm, it was only 2 hours as all hands were on deck for departure. The next watch was 12-4pm the next day, it was a lovely sunny day with clear blue skys however winds were low so we motored for most of the day. As it was hot it was a tiring day for some but the low winds meant it was quite a relaxed watch and we had more time to learn and understand what we needed to do and why it had to be done. We were also trained on the water rights of way, navigation, different boat lighting and collision baring using CPA (closest point of approach) and TPA (time to point of approach), as well as taught how to pack the top sails. Some large sharks ware also seen as well as a few whales/dolphins! After dinner we had a happy hour where music was played as we cleaned the ship.
Shipslog Santa Maria Manuela - 24th July 2012
Today has been the first day we only see the sea. We hadn't experienced that yet!
At 03:40 a.m came the wake up to do the first watch. All of us has to do something: stay in the bow for watching, looking for the sails work well, .... The most beatiuful moment was when the lights went off and we could see the stars. We felt so fortunate to live that great experinece. Then we took our breakfast and went to sleep, waiting to the next watch at 4 to 8 p.
m.
After few hours having a rest, arrives a new lesson. In the following watch is when the oficial, the chief mate, explain us different issues about safety. For example he has given us a short briefing of how to react in case someone falls overboard, which is the emergency signal and which is our meeting point in this case or how to use the lifejaket. He also taught us to identify a boat that is in "collition route", watching for a red or green light and evidence of tallness.
We hope tomorrow will be as interesting as this memorable day. Untill that, we continue sailing.
Shipslog Bark Europa - Monday 23th July
23/07/12 day 2 Lisbon to Cadiz.
We started the day during our 4 hour watch at midnght. It was an amazing view of the stars - it looked like someone had thrown a handful of diamonds into the sky.
the milky way was so clear and there were many shooting stars.
On our watch we are 16 people and 7 nationalties but we are already working together. We took turns on lookout and steering.
It was Pablo's birthday so at 4am we decorated the deckhouse, made him a card and sang happy birthday to him. Later in the day the rest of ship was called to maindeck
to sing to him again and the galley made him a lemon cake and a present of a Europa teeshirt.
We all had to do some chores but there was also plenty of time to play some great games.
We are already losing track of the days - all that matters is the rythm of the ship , when to eat, when to be on watch, when to clean!
Today we did not do any climbing but there was a lot of sail handling and Europa was sailing fast with nearly all sails set. At around 1.30 we rounded the waymark
off Cap St Vincent - on course for Cadiz and 4th in the race.
Each day the watch times change so this evening we we are finished by midnight - now we are second - and so to bed - very tired.
Blue Watch
Shipslog Bark Europa - Sunday 22th July
LOG for SUNDAY 22 of July – first day at the Bark Europa
In the night of the 21th of July our group of 9 joined the other trainees and crew members of the Bark Europa. After some short instructions from the first mate, we all went to look for our cabins and find some sleep. Down below our bunks were small and hot but after our long trip most of us were able to get some shut-eye. The next morning the bark Europa was literally filled with trainees from every corner of Europe. After breakfast all the trainees were introduced to each other and with the basics of life on board. A tall-ship really does create a world of its own and learning how to sail it proved to be just so. With 25 regular sails and another 6 studding sails the Bark Europa is able to hoist a total of 31 sails. For the trainees to be useful this meant only one thing; training. So we went up those masts, worked those lines and learned to steer. Eventually at around 16.00 pm we left the cheerful Lisbon crowd behind us and set for the sea where we would start our race at approximately 20.00 pm. After setting as much sails as possible, the race was on its way. For the next days each of us will steer the helm, keep the look-out, work the sails and much more, all just for one purpose: being part of this beautiful little world called the Bark Europa. And winning maybe..
SHIPSLOG ANTWERP FLYER - LISBON
During the night of the 18th of July, we arrived back in the harbour of Portugal's capital city. The crew had a wonderful time in the bays of Cabo Espichel. There isn't much else to say that would describe our small adventure.
Noon in Portugal is extremely hot (let's say about 38°C at least). It is no surprise that holding a siesta is a necessity. But, sleeping on the sails makes you as much of a sailor as sitting in a garage makes you a car.
We are having a wonderful time here in the South. It is an experience that can't be written down, you have to be here to understand. After the festivities in Lisbon, we move further down, to Cadiz. This isn't the end of the voyage and definitely not the end of this blog. We are still here, alive and kicking.
SHIPS LOG PELICAN OF LONDON - WRITING
Hi everyone!
Sorry for just writing today, I’ve been quite busy. Why? Because not only I’ve been occupied working in the ship but I’m also writing a book about this trip. Actually I just love reading and writing and that’s probably why I prefer to write in a piece of paper than in a computer. Anyway, in this kind of diary that I’m writing nearly every days I talk about everything I’ve been through since this adventure has started. About the worst moments, the hardest ones (when I was badly seasick), and also about the best moments I’ve had on board. I started thinking about writing this diary when my father suggested me so, even before the Tall Ships Races had started. Since then I couldn’t stop thinking about doing it and finally, when I was already on board I did it. Actually I’m thinking about looking for anybody who might be interested in my story, maybe to publish in a magazine or newspaper, don’t know, I just think it would be really cool because there are many people interested in this kind of events and this diary I’m writing contents everything we all have been through (well, specially me of course…after all it has been written by me). Also everything was written while those where still fresh memories which is, by my point of view, a really good thing.
Today, I still didn’t get the chance to write in my book so I’ll do it here first since I’m already here. My job today is to be in the mess. It’s kind of my first time because the other time I was supposed to be in the mess I was so seasick and weak (because I couldn’t eat anything at all) they just send me to bed. Well, here, in the mess, our job is pretty clear. We’ve to help cooking sometimes, wash dishes and stuff like that, put the tables, serve the rest of the crew that’s eating and so on. It’s not that difficult I guess. For me, the main ‘problem’ is maybe seeing and smelling all the food before everyone else and not being able to eat it…at least not yet. Apart from those tasks I’ve already talked about, today I had again an ‘Happy Hour’(which is basically a cleaning time) when I had to clean the floor. It was easy after everything else I’ve cleaned here. Yesterday, for instance, I had to clean the heads (toilets), but I’m definitely not complaining because I got lucky and got an easy job, much better than cleaning the toilets them self as another person had to do. The ‘Happy Hour’ was, as usual, after the meeting. This time, in the meeting, after they’ve showed us where we us and what’s our plan for today, they gave us a bracelet where is written ‘The Tall Ships Races 2012’ and which give us access to the other ships and some events in Lisbon which is really nice even though I’m Portuguese, for sure! Also they told us about how the watches are going to work while we’re in the dock and if and how we can go in and out during the day. I can’t wait to show this ship to my family, specially brothers and parents, and to my boyfriend and best friend! This is probably due to the fact that none of them had already been in one ship of this kind or even similar I’m sure they’ll love it!
As today we’re going to Lisbon, to Santa Apolonia’s dock I might go home, to see my family, have my second dinner (at my normal times) and take a shower! I’m miss my home comfort such as my bedroom, bathroom, and my mom’s food but I have no complains, the cabins are great such as the toilets, and the food is much better than I thought it would be!
Well, I’ve to go, I’ve things to do! See you!
Sara Onofre
PS – since I’m Portuguese this has been an huge opportunity to test and of course improve my English skills which is great!
SHIPS LOG PELICAN OF LONDON - FUN
My time at the Pelican of London has been amazing! I came to St. Malo excited and nervous, I have never done anything like this before. I did not get to meet everyone on the ship before we had to dress up as pirates and join the crew parade. This was a really fun experience, and at the end of the parade I had already made some friends. Even if we did not know each other, we managed to win the crew parade! The actual sailing has been fantastic, and I have learned a lot on board the Pelican. I now know how to brace the yards and tie several knots.
Working shifts has been challenging, especially working the 4 – 8 shift, and getting up in the middle of the night. The crew has arranged a lot of fun games, and this had made my experience even better. Here is always something fun going on in this ship. We have played murder, which is a game were you have to “kill” a certain person on the ship with a random item on a certain place in the boat. For example I had to kill the bosun with a biscuit standing next to the captain. We have also had a boat race, where each team made a boat and raced against each other. The people I have met on this trip are amazing, and this is an experience I will remember for the rest of my life. Hopefully I will be back soon.
- Anna -
SHIPSLOG PELICAN OF LONDON - WHALES
Waking up for watch at 12 o’clock at night has never been my favourite, but with all the stars, the warm wind and the dolphins next to the boat you really can’t complain. It couldn’t be better I’m really happy to be here since I love to be at sea and even if we have had though weather it hasn’t bothered me. You just feel so great when you are standing at the bow looking down into the water or standing by the helm and the ship do as you want.
I’ve seen whales for the first time in my life, and two times to top it up a bit more J. We see dolphins every day. They come really close, and the water is so clear that you can still see them even if they are a few meters under the surface at night. It’s truly amazing.
Today we’ve started to make the ship look representable, since we are soon to arrive in Lisbon. We had a proper Happy hour yesterday so most cabins and other areas are really clean. What we are doing today is the brass. It’s sad that it’s soon going to be over for my part. I don’t want to go home yet. We have so much fun and my stomach really hurts when I start laughing because I have laughed so much. The crew has so many interesting stories to tell and they have a lovely sense of humour. Hopefully I will see you next year again. Fair winds and the best of luck.
Mikaela Sundman
SHIPSLOG PELICAN OF LONDON - Day 10 - St Malo - Lisbon
It is Day 10 of our voyage and we are steadily approaching the Tall Ships Race finish line off the Portuguese coast near Lisbon. The sun is shining brightly on deck – the warmest weather of the trip - and all the trainees are excited about seeing land again since our departure from Saint Malo.
In the last 10 days we all have experienced and learnt many new things. When I arrived on board Pelican I was placed in Main Watch, under the supervision of watch leader Nigel from Canada. My watch of 8 trainees was made up from a variety of nationalities – UK, France, Norway, Portugal, Switzerland, Italy and myself (Australia), which made for interesting conversations and hilarious communication events throughout the trip. I have really enjoyed being part of such a multi-national crew, as I found it adds to the character and spirit of the team, and have learnt so much about other countries, and now have friends all over the world.
As a watch we have battled sea sickness, learnt to take the helm, did navigation exercises, worked out which rope is which on the deck, and encouraged each other when working aloft. We have all helped out in the galley and pushed through the many “Happy Hours” of cleaning in the morning. We all discovered you couldn’t just shove all the stuff floating around your cabin under your duvet for Captain’s inspection either! Experiencing all these previously unfamiliar activities as a group on a beautiful Tall ship has taught me many lessons in teamwork and communication, and also the value of remaining positive in your outlook, and not letting others bring you down.
Around Day 6 it was clear that our ship would not be really in the running for winning the race, owing to changing of winds and bad weather in the Bay of Biscay. This in fact resulted in our ship tacking and heading northwest instead of south to Lisbon, but I was especially impressed with how our watch did not lament this fact, but carried on and made the most of each day. This is something you can always apply to life – sometimes it takes a reverse direction and everything seems to be going wrong but the important thing is to persevere and keep a smile on your face – or get your friend to tickle you until that smile returns. Either that or do a dance in a harness when you don’t realise the 1st mate is watching…
Other things I have particularly enjoyed is the rolling and motion of the ship. This may seem strange but I found it mostly quite relaxing when going to sleep, and it brought out many funny moments, and always made you think exactly about how to tackle everyday activities, such as taking a shower or keeping food on your plate so it doesn’t end up in someone else’s lap. I’ve also really enjoyed meeting everyone else on board, trainees and crew, and having a brilliant psychological break from my medical studies in Australia. I’m really looking forward to the last days of the voyage and the time in Lisbon and want to thank you for your kind sponsorship of my trip so far!
Rebecca Kuehn
SHIPSLOG PELICAN OF LONDON - 16 July 2012
It’s Day 10, the 16th of July, the day that we arrived in Lisbon, after nine days sailing on board in one of the most popular English tall ships – the Pelican of London.
These nine days were completely different from my ordinary life, and I’m not just talking about the space where I’m in (like stay 5 days with the ground at a lean of 15 degrees with 24 other trainees). Also living with rigid schedules to comply with is a thing that I’m not used to do. But probably the biggest difference was for a person who has lived for 3 years alone like me, to share a “house” with more than 30 persons who I never saw before, from all “corners” of the world.
In my case, as a student of naval engineering, it was like living in one of the books that I used to study. Sailing on T.S. Pelican could be a lecture in my course. Here I could see that I’m not just engineer, I can be also a sailor.
It also was my first time in an inter-cultural experience as in my watch there were trainees from 7 countries – Italy, Norway, France, UK, Australia, Switzerland, and myself (Portugal). I learnt that in spite of people coming from different countries and cultures, we are not that different, we are all similar. It was an enriching experience, for example tasting different foods from other countries. Also the linguistic difficulties sometimes were hard and frustrating because I was the only one not fluent in English in my watch but after some days, I was improving.
What did I enjoy most? Climbing the main mast, to the top. Also facing an angry sea in the bow of ship was not a scary moment, it was peaceful, I felt alive, being able to feel every movement of the ship. Set sails, seeing daily progresses on charts and GPS and trying a lot of things make the ships faster and faster.
And now, I am looking forward to the rest of the voyage and the time in Lisbon, my current home, with the other trainees and my new friends.
Pedro Mendonca
SHIPSLOG SANTA MARIA MANUELA - 15 July 2012
As our group mainly consists of people from France, we all celebrated today National day of France. French girls draw on trainees' cheeks colours of French flags and at least for one day we all became French :) That was pretty nice as, in my opinion, friendship between representatives of different countries is one of this race, which was quite good implemented in today's event.
One more thing to be mentioned for this day was the alarm training. At nearly 1pm there was an alarm signal heard all over the board, and everybody including crew members were to take and wear their life jackets and to gather in proper places on board. Then the captain explained to usdetails of what should be done in case of different types of alarm. As well, we were shown how to put the saving boat on water. You can be sure, that after that event we were not in the hurry to take off our jackets - as that was one of the rare moments when all of trainees are together, we took advantage of the situation to take pictures in such bright outfits :) Being on the watch we had one more new experience - climbing the match. Though it was pretty scary for me (I'm afraid of the highth sometimes), I was eager to climb up. And it definitely worth it - the view of the sea from that point appeared to be unforgetfully beautiful!
At the moment it's pretty clear that SMM is approaching Portugal - the sun is out from clouds, so some of trainees are enjoying it laying on the deck. And may I say you, it is the real happiness which can be read from their smiles:)
As I wrote previously, because of the weather conditions the SMM had to change her course, and that was the reason why we lost one day in competition. But to say truly, I've never heard that somebody from trainees is upset on that issue. Actually, there exist even an opposite reaction - we are happy that we have one more day to be spend at the sea. Hope you are having a beautiful weather as well!
SHIPSLOG SANTA MARIA MANUELA - 14 July 2012
Luckily, nobody got seasick because of the direction has been changed, but our group had quite a hard night watch. The ship was going more or less 20 degrees to the starboard side, so waves on that side seemed to be higher than they actually were. Sometimes they reached the board, so we should have been careful not to get wet. But even with such conditions it was kind of adventure :) Morning (which as usual starts for group A near 11am) wasn't much promising in terms of the weather. During our lunch we saw waves beating the windows and it was heard how hard the wind was stroking the sailors. But just as we started our watch magically the sun came out. The dolphins joined the SMM again, and for few minutes even the whale could be seen. Though such pleasure moment of sun were pretty quick to disappear, still they gave us positive mood.
SHIPSLOG ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT - 13 July 2012
Friday 13th July
Today was a very tough day. First watch started at midnight and it was very windy and dark, without any stars, and the waves were getting higher and higher. We also had a hard job to do – we needed to set some sails and make a turn. It was a challenging job just for one watch. But we did it! The second watch from 1200 to 1600 wasn’t any easier, especially because it started to rain. The price for our hard job were watching dolphins and, as always, a delicious CAKE!
Kasia & Zosia
SHIPSLOG BARK EUROPA EU EXCHANGE - 13 July 2012
Friday 13th July
Today, we had watch between 4 am and 8 am. It was pretty stormy outside and a lot of us were seasick, Chris amongst others. We had to take care of each other and take on the duties of those who were not feeling well. We had a good breakfast and after that most of us went to sleep for a while, as the red watch took over. At about 10.30 am we did another tack and turned back south towards Lisbon. Almost everyone was awake to help. After lunch, we had watch between 4 pm and 6 pm. There was a lot to do with the sails and it was sunny so the watch was enjoyed by everyone as most people had recovered from the night. Some of us climbed the mast to help set some sails. The British were scheduled to make dinner and we had a lovely curry (Yezi thought it tasted like the Dutch dinner). We celebrated Sarah’s birthday with carrot cake and singing. It was still very sunny and nice outside, but still the white watch had to go to bed early to prepare for next watch between 12 am and 4 am.
SHIPSLOG BARK EUROPA EU EXCHANGE - 12 July 2012
Thursday 12th July
Today we had our first watch at 08.00 to 12.00. After the captains had a briefing later in the day, we cleaned our rooms, and us girls climbed in the masts to take a picture. Afterwards the Dutch trainees had a presentation of their country, and they told us about their culture of bicycles and we got to taste their “stroopwafels”. We got to meet their Santaclaus in Dutch “Sinterklaas”, and he also brought presents for us. Our next watch was at 18.00 to 20.00, and I got the chance to climb in the masts, and be at the helm. At 19.00 it was dinnertime, and the dinner of the day were made by the Italian trainees. The watch was ended by being at the lookout with Judith, before having our usual clearing where we talk about what went good and wrong. Heading in direction Spain, many of us got phone signal, and one of the trainees could bring us the good news after talking to her mother, that we had been, and were at first place in our class. This were news that made us very happy, but unfortunately we had to tack because of the wind direction, so now we aren’t so sure about our first place anymore. But our watches of today have been good, and we have had a lot of fun, and we have seen dolphins swinging along the boat.
SHIPSLOG ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT - 12 July 2012
It was 4AM when I came on deck. The sky was open so we could see clearly the moon and the stars. There were many shooting stars so we wished for good winds from the good direction. Finally we saw a beautiful sunrise too. Unfortunately our wishes did not help very much. Now we are heading towards the waypoint at cape Finistere but the wind has changed in the wrong direction so it is difficult to reach the waypoint without having to tack. We are using an unconventional way to set the sails so we can sail as high to the wind as possible. Let’s hope it works.
The captain informed us during lunch with some good news, he said we are again first in our class! We celibrated with Sherry, the god of the sea got the first sip.
We also climbed the mast today. The sun was shining and to make the picture complete some dolphins came swimming next to the boat. So it was a beautiful day at the sea today.
Trainee Marie
SHIPSLOG PELICAN OF LONDON - 12 July 2012
Thursday, July 12, 2012 5:25am
It's four o'clock in the morning. I was falling asleep during my watch when suddenly a whale spouted water in front of me, so I decided to start writing something about my amazing voyage to Lisbon. Now, we are sailing around the Bay of Biscay protected by the light of the stars which are shining in the dark sky, I can also see Venus, Jupiter and Mars : they are my friends during this watch. Maybe you don't know exactly what a watch is, in fact it is a group of different activities that you do at different periods of the day. Of course you are not alone but with the rest of your watch group who help you steer at the helm, trim the sails and keep a lookout for other ships, etc.
Yesterday I was on the bowsprit stowing the jib when a group of dolphins started to jump out of the water, spraying me with water. Then we had a spanker party on the poop deck with the rest of the crew : this year the T.S. Pelican has got a very international crew composed of people coming from eleven different countries.
The captain is calling for me to go aloft so I must stop writing now. I leave you with a wonderful image of the sun rising over the ocean's horizon.
SHIPSLOG ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT - 10 July 2012
Tuesday 10 july 2012
Regards from ALEXANDER VOM HUMBOLDT. Nice sailing today, 11 knots, everthing is well.
Today was a very nice day..we all enjoyed it!!! You know why??? Because we started the race..and when I am writing you we are in a good position! Alexander is going very fast, 11 knots. We passed almost all the other ships, thanks to this speed I took many pictures from the other ships!
We began the day with a beautiful sunrise, nice weather, good wind so perfect to sail.
It’s only the second day but we can already write to you that it is a wonderful experience..we love sailing but it’s really funny to sail a tall one.The crew members are very dynamic and we learn many things everyday. Today we learn to do the most famous knot. Our favorite experience was to climb on the masts. Indeed the sensations are very unique and very strong. And for me (Delphine), it was to see Dolphins swimming at the bow of Alexander. Now the most difficult is to stay up on the ship, so we have to be careful all the time.
Bastien and Delphine
SHIPS LOG PELICAN OF LONDON - RACE 1
Tall Ship Pelican of London - Log Race 1 Saint Malo – Lisbon
Fourth day on the Pelican, since we've left St.Malo most of the crew have been sea sick and I'm one of the few lucky one's that hasn't been. Now that we have got all the sails set and that we are off the contnantal shelf the sea isn't as rough as it used to be, and the ship is steadier but it's leaning on port side. This last fact makes me slide up and down in my bed and it's pretty hard to go to sleep. Moreover, we never really get a full night of sleep because of the watches at night. Each hour of free time becomes some rest time. This new rythme is tiring and also messes up all notions of time but I guess I'll just have to get used to it and manage it. However, this sailing trip has been a really nice experience so far, I discover every day a new aspect of sailing and it's very interesting.
Edward (France)
TRAINEE LOG SANTA MARIA MANUELA SAINT MALO - LISBON
10 JULY 2012
You might have been interested of how the Tall Ship race 2012 from St. Malo to Lisboa is going at SMM board. In that case I would be more than glad to share some of my views and thoughts regarding this experience. Though today is only the third day from official start date, there are already too much emotions to share. I will do my best in order to write these notes as structured as possible, but all Your comments and recommendations of what is more interesting for You to know are highly welcomed.
The main thing I have learnt by now is that the ship in the first turn is her team. Though the ship's characteristics are very important, they are quite useless if people on the board are not playing like one team. So that is why, in my opinion, we as SMM trainees are very lucky - being from several different countries we still managed not only get to know each other, but to make a good team in order to learn better new things.
Especially since the watches have started, we gained a habit to get together to discuss new things and share gained during the watch knowledge.
Moreover, crew members are nice and patient to our questions, which I guess sometimes might be simple and funny, explaining every small detail we eager to know. Even though some of the team members are not speaking English, for some reason it was never the problem to understand each other. And i will not be surprised if by the end of the journey i will start to speak Portugese. :-)
This is shortly about the overall impression for the first days on board.Tomorrow I will share with some experience of day and night watches.
Trainee Yulia
SHIPSLOG ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT RACE 1
9th July
Today we had our first night watch, it was exciting because we had a chance to set sails for the first time. The event of the day was the emergency exercises. We had to run up the deck as if there was a real fire on the board; everyone had to wear their life vests and gather in one place. Members of the crew pretended to search for and kill the fire using the professional equipment. The price for our patience during the exercises was an amazing cake!
8th July
The day started with delicious breakfast. We were introduced to the ship and the crew which proved to be very friendly and chilled out. We left Saint Malo at 1300 with the great weather and thousands of spectators cheering us up, singing and clapping together with Alex’s crew and trainees. After the amazing time in the port, the real live on the ship has begun; we were divided into three watches and started our daily routine. Apart from the deck duties, some of us had to work in the kitchen to help the cooks with the meals and cleaning.
Always wanted to experience an international exchange?
We organize 7 exchange on board of Tall Ships this summer. Four exchanges will take place during the Tall Ships Races and three of them outside the Tall Ships Races. The nationalities will differ per ship.
The following exchanges are during the Tall Ships Races:
On the Bark Europa will be youngsters of Italy, Sweden, United Kingdom, Belgium, France, Norway, Portugal and the Netherlands. The Lord Nelson will have British, Portuguese, French, Spanish and Dutch youngsters on board.
We also have an exchange during the Tall Ships Races on board of the Kaliakra. On board of this ship will be nationalities from all over the world.
We still have some places left on the Bark Europa for Italian, Belgian and Swedish youngsters. On the Lord Nelson we have some places for youngsters of France, United Kingdom and Spain. And as said before on the Kaliakra are places for all nationalities .
Are you between the 15-25 years old and ready for an adventure this summer? Be quick and book now!
Blog Tecla 18 March 2012
The Tecla will be visting the Channel Islands this summer. Join her on this new adventure!
The first trip will take the Tecla from Bayonne to Cherbourg. A 13 days long trip for €1200 where you will have time to sail and visit some harbours!
Read more about Bayonne to Cherbourg
After that the Tecla will go on a 10 day discovery of the Channel Islands, read more about that here.
We hope to see you on Board!
Blog Bark Europa 21 March 2012
The Secret Life of Sea Kelp
21-03-2012 10:00
Tuesday March 20th 2012, South Georgia, anchored in Rosita Harbour. Day 19. A one hour lecture on Sea Kelp. Or a nap after a 4 am start. Tough choice. Surprisingly, I chose kelp. Jordi, our Spanish Expedition Leader, as it turns out, is an expert on kelp, completing his PhD in this area at a Patagonian University. We approach the lecture with caution. Even Jordi knows his students are high risk of dozing in class. And now, I am fascinated by this hardy species that makes a great contribution to the ecosystem here.
Kelp can basically be divided into three types - red, green and brown - and the different groups are found depending on the depth of the ocean. They contribute to the ecosystem in a couple of different ways: Engineering species - creating the environment through providing massive underwater forests. Key species - many other plant and animal species rely on kelp for food and shelter. Umbrella species - provides habitat for krill and fish species. Kelp could also be called an indicator species, as its abundance or otherwise provides a measure for the amount of UV radiation, level of nutrients available and other key determinants for monitoring changes in the marine systems.
The giant kelp has an interesting reproductive system. It attaches itself to the sea floor with holdfasts, finger like growths that do what their name implies. The reproductive components are at the base of the plant, and release microscopic male and female spores, which find each other and then create another asexual plant. And the cycle continues.
Jordi tells us about the commercial potential of kelp and that it is starting to be exploited - as salmon food, as cattle food, health extracts and cosmetics. With the perennial kelp growing 70-80 metres tall, and living up to 8 years, the 'canopy' of the forest is harvested from the surface of the water, and the plant continues to grow.
Charles Darwin was keen on kelp too, and thought it might provide the local indigenous people, who he called 'miserable people in a miserable land' with some food options. Jordi jokes that he has plenty more information on kelp and is planning lectures Kelp 2 and and 3 now we have graduated in Kelp 1. And, I think he might be serious. After all, it's a long sail between South Georgia and Tristan da Cunha.
Blog Bark Europa 21 March
Amazement
21-03-2012 10:00
Woensdag 21 maart 2012, South Georgia, ten anker in Prince Olav Harbour. Dag 20. Today a landing in Rosita Harbour. Again, there is an endless number of Fur seals. They’re almost impossible to get past and finding a route through is difficult. They lie everywhere, even high up the slopes. All we can do is to follow Jordi at leisurely pace…. He speaks to the seals, our seal-whisperer and they move aside. I’m a bit afraid of them, so when I try to stand my ground and scare them away, they are only coming closer…
A bit higher up, the Tussock grass gives way to an almost alien landscape. The mountain slopes empty, steep, sand and loose rocks. New life starts here in the form of mosses, grass and waterfalls of melting ice. We use the stream towards the beach as the return path. Seth found a dead Fur seal and lets us feel, fins like rubber, the skin wet and smooth like a fish, but when you push your finger in its pelt it feels soft, hairy and warm.
When we are all back on board we heave anchor and sail to Prince Olav Harbour. Sailing into the fjord was overwhelming: green hills, a glacier in the background, the water blue, turquoise….and then suddenly a small inlet with derelict houses, made of wood and corrugated iron, a deserted whaling station, red rust on a faded green hill. A wreck named “Brutus”, once used to store coal, overgrown with grass. We visit the cemetery, with a few memorials still standing.
We circle the station, because we are not allowed to enter due to the presence of asbestos. Everyone has their own thoughts on whaling. Luckily, plants and animals are taking over and we are only visitors. Unwanted, presumably. This trip has changed my view of the world. As Eric and Jordi had said before: South Georgia is the most beautiful island in the world. I fully agree. If you ask me, this is the paradise meant by the story of creation…Creation?
Blog Bark Europa 18 March 2012
It's that man Shackleton again!
18-03-2012 11:00
Scotia Sea, 35 miles WSW of South Georgia. Day 17. Roman wasn't kidding when he described playing the British National Anthem with his harmonica at Elephant Island - I've got it all on video.
He makes me feel very humble - I wouldn't know the Swiss equivalent if it hit me straight between the eyes - much less play it. I rather wish we could have arranged to take some tea and cucumber sandwiches along with us to complete the ambience of the occasion.
Joking apart, however, I have to confess that I'm an atheist from way back - but standing at the very spot where Shackleton launched the "James Caird" for the 800 mile journey to South Georgia was a religious experience for me.
The photos taken by Hurley of that event now make much more sense - we were able to identify the groups of rocks therein with the real thing.
The mind picture I had, from reading all the books, was that the foreshore where Shackleton left his men was much larger than it actually turned out to be. Indeed, it has now completely disappeared under a large rockfall from the precipitous cliff behind. Maybe some intrepid archaelogist will do a dig there at some point in the future, and recover the remains of the camp.......
For 22 men to huddle beneath two upturned ship's boats for over four months in such a bleak place, and keep alive the hope that Shackleton would make it to South Georgia and come back for them, beggars belief.
Perhaps it's just as well that they didn't have to experience the journey to South Georgia themselves. We left Elephant Island four days ago, following Shackleton's route, and expect to arrive in the next twenty-four hours. We've had a relatively easy passage - no more than force 7 winds and 3 metre high waves. His voyage must have been an order of magnitude greater - it took him over twice as long, for a start. When I get to see the "James Caird" again, later this year, I'll view it in a very different light.
So, the Shackleton parallels continue - and they aren't finished yet. In a few days we will be following the last few kilometres of the trek that Shackleton, Worsley and Crean did over the mountains and glaciers of South Georgia to get to the whaling station at Stromness. It would be nice to contemplate the possibility of coiling a rope into a flat disc, sitting on it and sliding down the mountainside in a desperate attempt to reach civilisation, like they did. I guess this will not be the case, but based on the uncanny similarity between our experiences and his over the past few days, you never know.............
Blog Bark Europa 18 March
A busy day
18-03-2012 10:00
Scotia Sea, 35 miles WSW of South Georgia. Day 17. We are on our way from Elephant Island to South Georgia. Drake Passage ends in the East in Scotia Sea. That's where we are sailing now for 4 days in order to arrive in South Georgia, probably later this night.
Day started at 0:00 with dog watch to 04:00. Then I slept to 10:15 and treated myself to a hot shower. Then a lecture about Kelp, part 1 of 3, followed by watch again from 12:00 to 16:00. Beautiful sailing weather, 6 bft wind from the quarter, blue sky and we are going like hell (9 knots).
Then a mandatory lecture about the nature of South Georgia and then a photo session outside. Unfortunately the sun is gone, but it's made good by a bunch of hourglass dolphins that accompany us. Took a hundred pictures, probably three good ones. Now we have supper and then again on watch from 20:00 to 24:00h.
Therefore a busy day, but what a day!
Blog Bark Europa 17 March 2012
Scotia Sea, 260 miles SW of South Georgia. Day 16
17-03-2012 10:00
We are cutting through the Scotia Sea like a razor, more than halfway along on our path to South Georgia from our last Antarctic landing on Elephant Island. We’ve been heeling over on the starboard side, and making good speed with most of our sails up to catch the wind, making nearly ten knots at times. It’s amazing to look out over these wind-torn waves and think about Shackleton, Worsley, Crean, McNeish, Vincent, and McCarthy making this same passage in their little 20-ft lifeboat, the James Caird, 95 years ago.
Those poor guys were constantly soaked, sleeping in wet reindeer-skin sleeping bags and continually having to chip frozen sea spray off their boat with fingers blistered by frostbite. We’ve been enjoying the crossing in relative luxury with temperatures at least a few degrees above freezing and nice warm bunks to retire to at the end of our watches.
Visibility has been low, with dense fog enveloping us for most of the day, but we’ve still managed to see some of the inhabitants of the wide Southern Ocean through the mist - Antarctic Prions, Giant-Petrels and Black-Browed Albatrosses winging over the sea in their miles-wide search for food. And yesterday, five or six Hourglass Dolphins accompanied the ship, playing in the waves alongside the bow for a brief moment before disappearing back into the infinite expanse of the ocean.
I’m sure that Shackleton and his men had the same species with them at points during their heroic passage to South Georgia, and maybe after surviving such a harrowing journey they felt as we do that in some way we’re being escorted through this wild part of the earth.
Blog Bark Europa 14 March 2012
North coast of Elephant Island, Point Wild. Day 13
14-03-2012 10:00
Today early in the morning – I’m not kidding – I saw a pink elephant. The legendary Island where Shackleton’s men had to wait and hope for rescue was taking a bath in the rising morning sun. At 5 o’clock I had slept enough and went up to the fo’c’s’le deck in order treat myself with a good lungful of oxygen.
And also to air off the tiger cage smell that had developed in our 5 man cabin during the night. It was also the right moment for a little session of push up’s, a few crunches and a little chat with Libby and Neil, who had volunteered for lookout duty at this early hour. Together we admired the sun rising behind Cornwallis Island, a big chunk of rock in the east - and the glaciers covering Elephant Island turning from pink to orange. A single Orca, who was up early too, showed his back fin for a glimpse of a moment and disappeared as quickly as he had appeared.
Although I should have seen it coming, my little workout routine unexpectedly turned into a proper one. Sailing at good speed, we had almost overshot Point Wild and suddenly ALL deckhands were needed to take ALL the sails down, preferably ALL together and 15 minutes ago would you please. That almost led to an overdose of oxygen. But fortunately that is not possible – at least not at 1 atm. I know that for sure – although that’s another story. But it was definitely a good morning workout to climb up to the royal yards twice and furl them sails and it triggered a healthy breakfast appetite.
So then the rare pleasure of a landing at Point Wild awaited us. Wind and wave direction worked in our favour. We are told that this doesn’t happen very often and it is only the second time in Europa’s Antarctic sailing career that this would be possible. And as she moved in closer to this inhospitable place you realize it is doubtful that it welcomed many visitors since Frank Wild’s Party left it.
The rugged steep cliffs above a few square meters of beach covered in black boulders and chunks of ice, the rough and thundering shore break and a pretty nervous glacier in the background, that cracks and dangerously growls every few
minutes, make this place a rather unsuitable place for a camping holiday. But I guess they had no choice back then. As we stepped ashore onto slippery rocks we were greeted by the locals: a Chinstrap penguin colony, a bachelor commune of Fur seals keeping company to the lonely bust of the captain of the Chilean Tug that successfully rescued the
stranded men in 1917.
So in honour of Ernie, Frank and their fellow brave Englishmen, I blew the notes of God save the Queen into my
harmonica, not only to theirs but also to the pleasure of a living countryman of theirs: Bob – member of HM honourable James Caird society would you believe – said this was one of the greatest moments in his life and he will now be able to die a happy man. Even Penguins and Fur seals turned their ears (latter ones even got some – family of otaridea) and listened to the melody it seemed to me. Certainly it’s been a while since these black cliffs echoed the sound of the anthem - about 95 years maybe? But as one cannot hear the same stuff over and over again, I had to conclude with a Bernese March which, I’m pretty sure, has never been heard out here.
When we boarded the zodiacs again we were glad we’d only spent a good hour and not 105 days here. Then again we were very grateful we were granted one whole hour at this place! Last but not least I should point out that the weather had been especially kind to us: good visibility and beautiful light effects had been organized for the photographers during
our presence and just as the last zodiac proceeded to leave the shore, the fog moved back in and closed the curtain over the scenery…end of the show.
Blog Bark Europa 13 March 2012
Just Like Shackleton! (Almost)
13-03-2012 10:00
Bransfield Strait, towards Penguin Island. Day 12. I've always thought that psychic powers were a load of baloney, but based upon the last couple of days, I might just have to take another view. In my last blog I observed that we were about to follow in the footsteps of Shackleton - and jokingly wondered whether Europa would end up caught in the ice, like his ship Endurance was.
We have all heard thatin recent years the Antarctic ice has been melting faster, thanks to global warming. I expected the northern part of the Weddell Sea to be largely open water but dotted with icebergs and smaller growlers. For the first few hours of our route south into it, this was indeed the case.
I don't think that previously I had really entertained the thought that Europa could possibly end up surrounded by thick ice, with no open water in sight.
Well, now I'm not so sure what I thought prior to the event - because that is exactly what happened. One minute we were motoring through open water with a fair number of small ice floes nearby, and the next the floes had closed around the ship into one contiguous mass.
For the best part of 24 hours we were surrounded by ice that had not just formed in the past year. It was THICK -, several years worth of growth to it - and pressure ridges had built up where the ice floes had collided with each other.Thick enough, indeed, for Europa's engines to be unable to push the ship through it.Pretty much the same situation that Shackleton found himself in back in 1914. The big difference for us was our steel hull - whereas, if my memory serves me correctly, Endurance had a wooden one.
We ended up spending the night stuck fast. It was a beautifully clear and still evening, though - ideal for a bit of stargazing to take our minds off things.The Southern Cross was directly overhead, and both Mars and Saturn were on view. With the help of binoculars, we were able to view spectacular star clusters that cannot be matched by their northern hemisphere cousins.
I didn't doubt that the Europa's hull could take the strain- but yesterday morning, as we were still struggling to free ourselves from the ice, with open water at last within sight, the ship started to get closer and closer to an iceberg with sheer vertical sides that were higher than the top of the ship's main mast.The main concern here was the possibility of part of the berg deciding to break off. Our skipper Eric's skills at ship manoeuvring came to the fore here. With judicious use of the forward and reverse gears and repetitive ramming of the ship's bow into the ice,he managed to create a small pool of open water around the ship, which finally was connected to open water beyond the iceberg.
As we finally and jubilantly sailed free past the berg, it chose this moment to do what we had been worried about. A sizable part of its side broke free and cascaded into the water. By now, however, we were some distance away - even the large waves it produced had no effect on us. Despite the plethora of cameras on board, most of us were caught napping. My camera chose this moment to inform me that its battery was exhausted. Only a couple of us actually recorded it for posterity.
I will resist the temptation to draw this narrative to a close with any more comparisons to Shackleton's voyage - the parallels are getting a bit too close for comfort!
Blog Bark Europa 12 March 2012
Ice bergs and ice floes
12-03-2012 10:00
In the Antarctic Sound again, towards Paulet Island. Day 11. We've been at sea for 9 days now and have had an eternity of experiences. We've walked among the penguins in a number of South Shetland locations: Barrientos, Hannah Point , Deception Island.
Wonderfully entertaining creatures, penguins. They appear to be welcoming you with their flapping wings as you step off the zodiac onto their beaches. Not as entertaining but equally impressive are the seals. Elephant seals, Crabeaters, Weddells. All close enough to capture with a 105mm lens.
Among the penguins I feel as though I'm walking around in a Walt Disney movie. Not so on Deception Island when we dug hot tub size holes on the volcanic sand beaches in an attempt to capture the boiling hot water below the surface. The idea was to fill the hole with hot water and to let in, via a small channel, some sea water in order to temper the water enough so that you could have a good soak in the Antarctic. That felt more like a Pink Panther movie.
Our hot tub constructions were terrible. They let in more Antarctic water than hot water so every time lay down into the warm water a freezing cold wave went over you. And each that happened you found yourself digging and digging to get to hot water in order to spare yourself from freezing to death. That by the way did not happen. The whole thing was very funny and generated tons of laughter. It was a great afternoon.
Locked in by ice
The evening before last we visited Esperanza, an Argentinean military station. Sixty three people live there year round and during the summer months scientists study wild life in the area. This is the site where in 1903 Nordenskjold's expedition was stranded for nearly two years when their ship sank as it was crushed by icebergs.
Late yesterday afternoon, after a sparkling sunny morning on Brown Bluff, the Bark Europa was suddenly surrounded by ice bergs and ice floes. Giant icebergs. Taller than the ship's masts, around a hundred feet high. Alas ... we were locked in.
Nordersjold's teeny stone hut cemented with penguin poo suddenly appeared a little too real to me. However, Captain Eric, cool and calm provided confidence. Rensje, the ship's cook provided hot wine on deck. All was well.
This morning when we woke many things had changed with the positions of the icebergs. What had not changed was the fact that we were still locked in. It was somewhat comforting to learn that only 37 miles to the South was a station with a Russian icebreaker that could save us should things worsen. They did not. About an hour ago we made a breakthrough and were able to get to some open sea.
As I'm writing we're sailing to Paulette Island. The goal is an excursion on land but as we're finding out, nothing is certain in Antarctica. Stay tuned.
Blog Bark Europa 11 March 2012
Locked in by ice
11-03-2012 10:00
Erebus & Terror Golf, southeast of Andersson Island. Day 10.
We are in the Weddell Sea, and we know it! The plan for today was to visit two destinations, starting from the Argentine base Esperanza on the Antarctic Peninsula.
Early this morning we left for Brown Bluff. Beautiful weather, calm sea, clear blue sky and no wind. We saw Gentoo penguins and fur seals. Great photo opportunities for all the wildlife and all the icebergs around.
After that Petrel Cove was the next destination, also an Argentine base (unmanned this time), with lots of penguins and seals to see. However a storm has blown lots of sea ice into this area, therefore we couldn't make it to this destination.
On to Devil Island, alas that route is also blocked by ice fields and now we are surrounded by sea ice. We still can move a bit, however the directions in which we can is limited by the ice.
At this moment we are trying to get to Paulet Island. This seems to be the best opportunity for open water and possibilities to go where we want to go. We'll see if it's going to work out.
Blog Bark Europa 10 March 2012
Yet another unique experience!
10-03-2012 10:00
We spent yesterday at Deception Island in the South Shetlands- a huge, flooded volcano caldera - very similar in size to Santorini, but that's about the only similarity between the two.
Deception looked like the surface of the moon. We went for a walk/climb around part of the crater rim in the morning, but the real treat was in the afternoon.
There is still volcanic activity on the island, and in one particular spot on the beach (well, I use the term advisedly - no sand, just volcanic ash), steam was rising right next to the water's edge.It was possible to go for a bathe in the hot water so generated, apparently. I found it a bit difficult to get my head around this -taking off my clothes in the open air in the Antarctic, putting on my swimming trunks, and sitting in a shallow pool of warm water? Had our guides lost the plot?No, they hadn't - a few hardy souls did actually try this - and I can report that it has to be one of the most surreal things I've ever done.
The Blue Lagoon in Iceland is about the closest thing to it - but here there were no changing rooms - and you had to dig your own little pool in the ash by the water's edge first. Not a good idea to get changed before doing the digging, as I found to my cost.However, once you were lying in only a few inches of really hot water (enough to burn your bum if you weren't careful) it was worth the effort - the trick was to make a small channel to allow the (very) cold water from the bay to wash into your pool. Worth every second!
Today we landed on the mainland for the first time - at the Argentinian Base Esperanza at the extreme northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, for a guided tour and the chance to spend the last of our Argentinian pesos. Our ultimate goal is to sail further south into the Weddell Sea - in the footsteps of Shackleton, so to speak.
Hopefully the Europa will not end up like his ship Endurance, though!After this, we will sail back north to Elephant Island, and thence to South Georgia, so we really will be tracing outthe track of his famous voyage in the "James Caird" after the Endurance sank.
To have the opportunity to be able to retrace this voyage, something I first read about over twenty years ago, is hard to put into words. Time to stop, methinks, before I descend into mysticism- besides, we now have a queue of others wanting to wax lyrical as well!
Blog Bark Europa 10 March
Deception Island, a Baily Head outing
09-03-2012 10:00
The build-up
This being my second time on the Bark, some things so far have been similar up to now. We are back on Deception Island and Jordi, our Expedition Leader, is organizing the big strenuous walk to Baily head for the afternoon. In the morning Seth and Jordi plan a warm-up walk at Telefon Bay in the North West corner of the Island and many of us opt for the longer outing on the terrain that feels a bit like an industrial waste land. A new experience for me this year and the group of eager trainees is energetic and once on our way, we enjoy the magnificent look over the volcano’s caldera and surrounding elevation with Mount Pond that peaks at proximal 500 meters. Easy…
The warm-up
The next item on the agenda is another scrumptious lunch on the ship; we had many up to now and of course many more to look forward to.
The big walk is now inevitably upon us and Jordi had announced a 14:00 departure. He is concerned that we get on our way and remarks that we are already 5 minutes behind the schedule. The group is very relaxed at the moment and the eight trainees embark on the adventure. I had thought about the walk from last year but my wife remarks repeatedly that I have a great talent to forget many a hardship over time. But this little walk I shall remember in full colour for a long time…..
We lost some valuable time on the way to the enormous penguin rookery as I fell a little behind but did my best to clamber along over the ice field. At about 260 meters we arrived at the destination. What a sight, the estimated 200,000 penguins doing their bit to keep the species going strong for the future. We walked around the many little guys being busy doing this and that and recorded the action on our equipment of choice. There are not many of our species that have experienced the scenery all around us.
The inevitable
I enjoyed the being there but now we have to get back. Our location in the rookery was about 60 meters above sea level and a climb of 200 meters was ahead of us. I started at the back of our group and the muscles in my upper left leg started to stiffen up. Alexander of the pro crew is now by my side and thinks…of shit…
My brain is pounding, don’t think about it and I take another few steps, 200 meters up lay ahead of us and it will be downhill again. The little loop of events keeps reoccurring over and over, I feel the first nudge of my guardian Engle by my side, I get the meaning, keep going is his message. The nudges occur more frequently and we get through the rookery with a lot of muscle pain. The young bucks are well ahead now and I hit…
The wall
No tears and my thought is, just let me stay here for the night. Alexander is having none of that and I feel that now familiar nudge again. All I can think of that Alexander is performing the job of a Saint Bernardiner on a rescue mission. Where is the Brandy cask I wonder?
Finally we meet up with the group again and I welcome a little rest, but we must make time and we charge on again. We continue on the way up and the leaders remain visible, although well ahead. My Pusher is pointing out the highest point of the return trip, so near he thinks but I see it differently. Luckily the ice is covered with some volcanic granular matter and with some little rest stops we make it up the icy slope. Over time the melting snow created numerous ridges on the surface and the track provides lots of opportunity to climb up and down and then up again. Periodic rushing melt waters look now inviting to drink, it looks so clear, are there penguin nutrients mixed in? To hell with it, just bent down and take the liquid in. My survival instincts have kicked in and the nudges continue. We must get over the ridge, fog is now visible at the top and time to get back is of the essence.
Downhill with another challenge
We reached the top and as we look over the next little crest, what, not again, there is more. As we traverse the East wall now the winds have increased to more than 45 knots and it is hard to stand up, never mind making headway. But now the down slope is just ahead of us and we are close to the back end of the lead group. I see Roman going downhill with his arms out like a Bat, almost in flight.
How much fun can you get in one day? Here is another nudge again, boy that is so comforting. The ego does not hurt as much now, what a relief.
The descending style of pushing on makes me feel like marionette on strings, bumbling along with no muscles, avoiding rocks, and jumping along like an idiot, but we are going back to the ship. I was trying to yell to Zuben ahead of us, that I could smell the kitchen, but he was busy getting there and the wind made it impossible to be heard.
The wind has now made almost impossible to land the Zodiac, but the experienced crew picks us up in the nick of time, Jordi on the helm with Clicia and Alex in the water pushing us of the beach. A wild water rafting experience is thrown in to complete the day, a good drenching and it is all worth it. What a day and I survived it thanks to the persistent Nudger Alexander. I would do it again if Jordi would allow me to be part of the next group in the future.
Blog Bark Europa 9 March 2012
Towards the Weddell Sea, into the Antarctic Sound
09-03-2012 10:00
We are all a bit in love with Bark Europa. It started as a passing admiration - a photo on the website, a glimpse of her at a Tall Ships race, conversations with friends besotted with her charms. Now we've had a week to get to know the Bark Europa, her foibles and charms, and she is gradually knocking us into shape.
After the shock of the confined quarters, we are discovering our favourite places - a midnight anchor watch in the wheelhouse, the library lined with books for a wet afternoon, the deckhouse and bar for some social interaction.
After a few days in the South Shetland islands, with daily landings ashore, we admire her from a new perspective. Every time we walk on the beaches, and high on the glacial ridges, we photograph her from a new angle, framing her with a new backdrop to show her graceful presence.
Each day we return from our adventures ashore, we are grateful for her warm embrace and the daily miracles from the galley. We are thankful for her practicality in providing hot showers and clean laundry, and a powerful engine when the wind blows in the wrong direction.
And yes, each day we love her a little bit more.
Blog Bark Europa 9 March
Deception Island, a Baily Head outing
09-03-2012 10:00
The build-up
This being my second time on the Bark, some things so far have been similar up to now. We are back on Deception Island and Jordi, our Expedition Leader, is organizing the big strenuous walk to Baily head for the afternoon. In the morning Seth and Jordi plan a warm-up walk at Telefon Bay in the North West corner of the Island and many of us opt for the longer outing on the terrain that feels a bit like an industrial waste land. A new experience for me this year and the group of eager trainees is energetic and once on our way, we enjoy the magnificent look over the volcano’s caldera and surrounding elevation with Mount Pond that peaks at proximal 500 meters. Easy…
The warm-up
The next item on the agenda is another scrumptious lunch on the ship; we had many up to now and of course many more to look forward to.
The big walk is now inevitably upon us and Jordi had announced a 14:00 departure. He is concerned that we get on our way and remarks that we are already 5 minutes behind the schedule. The group is very relaxed at the moment and the eight trainees embark on the adventure. I had thought about the walk from last year but my wife remarks repeatedly that I have a great talent to forget many a hardship over time. But this little walk I shall remember in full colour for a long time…..
We lost some valuable time on the way to the enormous penguin rookery as I fell a little behind but did my best to clamber along over the ice field. At about 260 meters we arrived at the destination. What a sight, the estimated 200,000 penguins doing their bit to keep the species going strong for the future. We walked around the many little guys being busy doing this and that and recorded the action on our equipment of choice. There are not many of our species that have experienced the scenery all around us.
The inevitable
I enjoyed the being there but now we have to get back. Our location in the rookery was about 60 meters above sea level and a climb of 200 meters was ahead of us. I started at the back of our group and the muscles in my upper left leg started to stiffen up. Alexander of the pro crew is now by my side and thinks…of shit…
My brain is pounding, don’t think about it and I take another few steps, 200 meters up lay ahead of us and it will be downhill again. The little loop of events keeps reoccurring over and over, I feel the first nudge of my guardian Engle by my side, I get the meaning, keep going is his message. The nudges occur more frequently and we get through the rookery with a lot of muscle pain. The young bucks are well ahead now and I hit…
The wall
No tears and my thought is, just let me stay here for the night. Alexander is having none of that and I feel that now familiar nudge again. All I can think of that Alexander is performing the job of a Saint Bernardiner on a rescue mission. Where is the Brandy cask I wonder?
Finally we meet up with the group again and I welcome a little rest, but we must make time and we charge on again. We continue on the way up and the leaders remain visible, although well ahead. My Pusher is pointing out the highest point of the return trip, so near he thinks but I see it differently. Luckily the ice is covered with some volcanic granular matter and with some little rest stops we make it up the icy slope. Over time the melting snow created numerous ridges on the surface and the track provides lots of opportunity to climb up and down and then up again. Periodic rushing melt waters look now inviting to drink, it looks so clear, are there penguin nutrients mixed in? To hell with it, just bent down and take the liquid in. My survival instincts have kicked in and the nudges continue. We must get over the ridge, fog is now visible at the top and time to get back is of the essence.
Downhill with another challenge
We reached the top and as we look over the next little crest, what, not again, there is more. As we traverse the East wall now the winds have increased to more than 45 knots and it is hard to stand up, never mind making headway. But now the down slope is just ahead of us and we are close to the back end of the lead group. I see Roman going downhill with his arms out like a Bat, almost in flight.
How much fun can you get in one day? Here is another nudge again, boy that is so comforting. The ego does not hurt as much now, what a relief.
The descending style of pushing on makes me feel like marionette on strings, bumbling along with no muscles, avoiding rocks, and jumping along like an idiot, but we are going back to the ship. I was trying to yell to Zuben ahead of us, that I could smell the kitchen, but he was busy getting there and the wind made it impossible to be heard.
The wind has now made almost impossible to land the Zodiac, but the experienced crew picks us up in the nick of time, Jordi on the helm with Clicia and Alex in the water pushing us of the beach. A wild water rafting experience is thrown in to complete the day, a good drenching and it is all worth it. What a day and I survived it thanks to the persistent Nudger Alexander. I would do it again if Jordi would allow me to be part of the next group in the future.
Blog Bark Europa 6 March 2012
Drake passage, 500 miles of nautical fun?
06-03-2012 10:00
For me and most us of it is, although not for everybody. Fortunately all of them are slowly getting better now.
"Everybody" is a very international and well-travelled company of 35 trainees and 19 professional crew, travelling with Europa to the South Shetlands, Northwest of the Antarctic Peninsula.
The Drake has been very friendly to us so far. Only on the first day did we have strong winds, but at the moment we have a nice wind from the quarter, blowing us to our destination. We even had to start the engine last night to maintain proper speed.
We just had a lecture in order to have a responsible first Antarctic landing. Responsible in every way, safe and especially without causing any damage to the Antarctic environment in any way. All to keep the Antarctic as it is without leaving any marks.
One thing I know for sure though. This trip will definitely leave some marks with me.
Blog Bark Europa 4 March 2012
First Day Behind the Mast
04-03-2012 10:00
It's 09.00 on our second day at sea and we're starting the first day of what will be a three day crossing of Drake's Passage. The waves are crashing against the porthole windows and even the crew members are finding it difficult to manoeuvre themselves about. The nautical rule “one hand for the ship" is a must to follow.
At times two hands are not enough. That wasn't true yesterday when we left Ushuaia, the first day of our 52 day journey from Cape Horn to Cape Town. Then the weather bordered on balmy. Clear skies, a gentle wind, plenty of time to get to know fellow passengers, absorb the numerous instructions from the crew on ship safety and to establish schedules and duties for the various "watches" we will all be taking part in each day of our sea crossings.
We sailed east on the Beagle Channel taking in the spectacular views of the Chilean snow-capped mountains on our right and the undulating hills of Argentina on our left. We saw the Sei Whales, a species that hasn't been seen in 15 years in these waters along with porpoises and albatross.
Although we've been sailing for less than 24 hours, it seems much longer. Yesterday the watch system started and it will define our days at sea. The idea is to use a 4 hours on 8 hours off system however, given the number of guest crew (35) certain groups would continually have the worst shift so a different system was devised. It's all rather complex but what it boiled down to for my group was that we started with a two hour shift at 1400 yesterday afternoon.
The "watch" at least for now is divided into two duties. First is a true "watch" requiring you to stand on the foredeck looking out for anything that's not the sea such as icebergs, whales, other ships, but mainly containers from oil tankers which don't show up on the ship's radar. There was nothing to report on my watch which felt as though I was falling behind on the job but good to know that the waters of Antarctica are pristine.
The other watch duty is manning the helm. Of course a crew member is with you to make sure you don't go off course but I got my first stab at it on the second watch of the day that was from 00.00-04.00 ... the middle of the night! It was pitch black and very stormy. While I was diligently watching the compass to make sure it stayed on 150 degrees south east, the Captain gave the command to the deck crew to hoist extra sail. It was awe inspiring to watch these fearless folks climb up the masts in the dark, with the wind howling and the ship swaying back and forth.
Earlier that morning while we were still in the calm waters of the Beagle Channel the crew gave us a climbing the mast demonstration. We all put on the required harnesses but only a third of the group dared to climb the plus meters up the mast, cross a type of landing and then climb down the other side. I took a stab at it but when I climbed up the first side the crossing over to the other side required some tricky hoisting of the body and I took a look at the sea below and changed my mind. I'll give myself another week and try again. Meanwhile, the Bark Europa is crewed with gutsy, first class folks. It's going to be a wonderful crossing.
Blog Bark Europa 3 March 2012
The ultimate E-Ticket ride: a Grand Canyon raft-trip on steroids
03-03-2012 10:00
Leaving the Beagle Channel towards the Drake Passage.
Last night I found myself standing an 8:00pm to midnight watch on the magnificent Europa. Our heading was about 130. We are under almost full sail. Over my left shoulder was an almost full moon racing to stay with us. About 50 miles to our West lay Cape Horn in the faint afterglow of the setting sun. Below and beside me I could hear the slap of darting Dolphins and see the faint sparkle of moonlight dancing on their backs. Like most of us they were loath to relinquish their playtime.
The Beagle Channel lay well behind us now and we were barrelling toward the Drake Passage. My thoughts turned to all the Titans of Exploration who had travelled here over centuries past. And here I am, so very fortunate to be travelling and crossing their paths. I wondered what their thoughts were as they stood watch on their ships so many years ago, as they navigated these most southern latitudes.
For a brief moment I think I knew.
Newsletter links
After sending the newsletter we discovered that some of the links where not working! Our apologies, hopefully you will find that the following links ARE working:
International Exchange on board the Wylde Swan
http://www.atseasailtraining.com/178/273/wylde-swan-/-youth-in-action-2012.html
International Exchange on board the Bark Europa
http://www.atseasailtraining.com/178/270/bark-europa-/-youth-in-action-2012.html
Sultanate of Oman Bursary Scheme on the STI website
http://www.sailtraininginternational.org/get-on-board/how-to-get-involved/funding---oman-bursary-/
Blog Bark Europa 24 February 2012
Colors of Antarctica
24-02-2012 10:00
There are many things that strike you when you visit this continent. Everything they have told you, or have read or seen on documentaries is not only true but is multiplied by ten. The size of the waves for one is overwhelming. So is the cold that hits you ferociously, or how fast the weather changes back and forth in just as few hours. You might have started your day with a totally flat sea, blue skies, clear weather and a few hours later end up in a force 6 gale with rain, snow and hail pouring down intermittently.
It is also impressive for us folks living in urban areas the total absence of airplane lights in the skies. Since we are far away from any commercial airline route we have spent the past two weeks seeing only the sun, the moon, stars and no man-made light in the sky.
This particularly makes you realize you are as far away from civilization as can be and how close to deep dark nature.
But what amazed me the most is the impressive colors this continent has to offer. Beginning with the ocean blue on the Drake passage, a deep blue I have never seen anywhere else which I could only define as light purple or deep tungsten. It can be seen distinctively when the waves crest over and the light shines through them. Once on the Antarctic peninsula the iceberg show of lights begins, turquoise, both dark and fair, bluishgreens, all as if an artificial light bulb had been placed inside the iceberg making it appear as Christmas lights. All shades of fair blues inside the glacier can be discovered as chunks of ice the size of mountains fall in to the ocean and reveal behind the true colors of air~free ice.By sunset of course all shades of yellows, reds, and oranges with mixed patches of blue sky create this amazing palette in the sky, and everything surrounded by the most pure and blinding white you can imagine.The white glaciers get bathed with beautiful pink shades just after sunset and just as quickly as the pink came it gets washed away moments later by the various shades of steel gray covering the mountains at night.
It will probably be the colors of Antarctica what I will most remember many years after this trip has gone.
And I will never forget that most beautiful and shiny little star I saw every night keeping me company up on the sky, happy birthday to you Miranda!!
Blog Bark Europa 23 February 2012
Adieu Antarctica
23-02-2012 10:00
Funny feeling, at this very moment the desire to go home is not much bigger than the desire to stay here.
Even though I know that home is more than pleasant there has been a strange awareness these past weeks.
Here, there is no smell so any odor is strong, a slight problem on landings with many pinguins and a delight if you smell the superb meals from the galley. Apart from smell we miss time here, you can simply sit and wait for hours to see a pinguin passing by or wait days for a glimpse of the tail of a passing whale.
I know I cannot stay but something inside is dragging me and warning whether I learned something ,or better, not to forget or ignore it. My feeling is yes, I spent many nights in a small bunk and shared a small cabin with 3 other guys, something I usually do not do on holidays but it worked out very well.
Life on board is easy, you shower when possible, you shave when itchy, you eat regularly and enjoy total freedom. No cell phones ringing, no email, no internet, just an enormous number of animals, extremely nice icebergs, colours, wind and more nature than I will ever experience again.
It brought me back to the essence of happiness in life, might sound a bit 2007 but it is certainly true.
I was on dogwatch this night, nice watch from 00.00 till 04.00, and tried to imagine who ever in this life passed the Drake Passage and the Cape Horn area and was wondering whether everybody has that mixed feeling of leaving and staying in Antarctica.
Do you first have to rush all over the world in 2012 or did they have the same feelings in, let us say 1600?
These are my feelings for the next watch tonight; hope to see to the light dim on this huge sea at a 355 course heading home, because there is where I want to be with this experience which I happily shared with son Thijs.
Whoever considers travelling to Antarctica, do not wait !!!
Blog Bark Europa 21 February 2012
For the last time the Antarctic soil under our feet
21-02-2012 10:00
Today our last real landing, for the last time the Antarctic soil under our feet; the next we step ashore it will be in Ushuaia.
This last landing takes place under a deep blue sky, not a leaf stirred, although there are no leafs here.
The bay of Port Lockroy is sheltered from all sides; this was our anchorage for the last two nights. After our last (snail)mail is posted on this most southern post office in the world, Lex brought the mail by zodiac to the four ladies that occupy this little rock-island during the summer. Then we slowly steam in-between the mountains that are covered with snow and glaciers, they look like whipping cream cakes and.. around the corner...
It doesn't take long before we go ashore. The penguins are silent today, are the chicks not hungry anymore?
We walk over the rock along the coastline, sometimes we have to cross tiny frozen melt water streams.
Lex discovers some other animal live: springtails, they look like thin pencil lines with a length of only 2 mm. under the magnifying glass they look like ants with a long behind.
We walk a little inshore and there are two 2 refuge huts, one Argentinian and a well-kept British one. The English are looking well after their heritage on the Peninsula. All the food supplies from the scientists that were here long ago, are still there, even the Cadbury chocolate bars are untouched on the shelves. But we are here to climb the glacier slope, with the reward of a beautiful view over Port Lockroy. With a sunny winter sport feeling we walk through the soft creaking snow.
Back on board, we heave anchor and start moving Northwards, through the Neumayer Channel, with Anvers Island on our left, with the 2825 meter high mountain, we can see the top without clouds to day. On our right, the Antarctic mainland. Because it is further away from us, the snow looks more yellow coloured. We pass big icebergs and later we see Humpback whales, often in couples. The ship is reducing speed and slowly moves closer to the whales.
We are on our way to the Melchior Islands and will drop anchor there. From these Islands we will start our Drake Passage tomorrow afternoon.
Blog Bark Europa 18 February 2012
Halftime
18-02-2012 10:00
Today we will reach the most southern point of our voyage and we have as many days ahead than behind. So: It's halftime! In games like soccer or basektball, there would be now the need for a rest. But as this trip for most of us is the trip of our lifetime, we don't even think about taking a rest!
During the first days of our journey we mostly look at the antartic world through lenses of all size. But since every kind of penguines, whales, icebergs etc. are pictured, the shutters of the cameras get a rest und pure enjoyment of the nature at this far end of the world will take its place in our life on board.
This evening we will visit the ukranian Vernadsky-Station. There we will - with their home-destilled vodka - say 'Cheers!' to the remaining days to come!
Blog Bark Europa 17 February 2012
Antarctic landing
17-02-2012 10:00
At last, our first footsteps on the Antarctic continent are at Neko Harbour next to an active glacier. Small avalanches in the rocky peaks and cracking ice punctuate the stillness, and we don't wait long for part of the glacier to disintegrate into the mirror like water, sending large ripples towards the dark beach where we wander among boulder-sized pieces of ice.
After lunch we take a zodiac tour in the snow around the glaciers of Paradise Bay, getting close enough to leopard seals lounging on ice-floes to hear their breathing. After dinner we land again at Almirante Brown - the Argentine base - for a short climb in the snow to a view, then a quicker and sillier slide back down on our rear ends, ready for a warm drink and a cosy bed.
Blog Bark Europa 16 February 2012
Almost in paradise
16-02-2012 10:00
Today we had almost a full day sailing through the Antarctic landscape. And we were very lucky. We had sunshine all the way, so it was good to be up on deck, it was not cold. We had a clear view of the mountains, the glaciers and the icebergs surrounding us. It was hard to find the best place to look, because it was all beautiful.
The shapes and shades of the icebergs, the light on the distant mountains. From time to time we saw single or small groups of penguins heading out to sea or back to their colony. Or we could see them resting on the icebergs.
The weather was good enough for us to have lunch up on deck, which meant that we could keep looking out. Right in the middle of lunch there was the shout of whales, and we saw two Humpback Whales a little way away from the ship. Shortly after one breached, and we could see almost the entire whale coming out of the water.
The animals then approached and decided to inspect the ship. They were all around and for a while had all of us running around the ship, from port to starboard and back again, cameras clicking, film cameras running. The animals were calm, slowly moving around, staying close to the surface. The bright sunlight enabled us to see them clearly, to see their heads coming up to watch us, to see their whole bodies under the water surface.
Today lunch had to wait, but nobody complained. The Galley girls and the watches were up on deck as well as all of the trainees. It wasn't until much later that eating was resumed and all went back to normal.
Well, almost.
French intern
We are looking for a French intern in Saint Malo!
In cooperation with the city of Saint Malo, one of the Tall Ships Races 2012 host ports, we are looking for a student who would like to do their internship in Saint Malo, helping with fundraising, finding trainees and other important things needed for the Tall Ships Races. We are looking for someone with an interest in Tall Ships, organizing, sailing and fundraising. Are you that person or do you know that person? Please contact us through info@seasailtraining.com.
Spanish intern
At Sea Sail Training is looking for a Spanish speaking intern who will help with the organisation of the Tall Ships Races 2012 in Cadiz.
Are you intrested? Send your Curriculum Vitae to info@seasailtraining.com!
Blog Bark Europa 14 February 2012
Anchor-watch
14-02-2012 10:00
Last night I did my first anchorwatch from 02:00 until 04:00 hour. Normally you are on your own in the wheelhouse and you have the Europa decks completely to yourself. But in my case it becomes busy after 3 o'clock, the crew starts with making the ship ready for sailing. At 4 hrs, Klaas comes in the wheelhouse and we heave anchor and hoist the sails. With a stiff breeze we make easily eight knots. On our way to Deception the big Volcano Island, there is a warm bath waiting for us.
Due to the snow squalls and the unpredictable winds around the Island we reduce sail and permanent crew climb like monkey's into the rigging and put gaskets around the lowered sails. Before we enter the caldera bay all sails are taken down and a lot of people are busy on deck, a good show of team spirit. Out of Whalers bay the Plancius departs, another Dutch ship.
Deception Island, shows us that her name is well chosen, the strong winds and high waves make it impossible for us to do a landing, so no volcanic bath for us, instead we take a nice warm shower on board.
Blog Bark Europa 13 February 2012
South Shetland charms
13-02-2012 10:00
Our second day of wildlife encounters in the South Shetland lslands started early, with humpback whales and a large pod of orcas visiting Europa in the very early morning while most happy travellers slept. What followed was a sublime morning of numerous whale sightings as we hugged the eastern edge of Greenwich and Livingston Islands under grey skies and light snow on our way toward Hannah Point.
One enthusiastic whale breached fully onto its back to the delight of those on deck. On two other occasions curious humpbacks came very close, one pair lingering near the surface for a good half hour within 10 metres of the Europa, and appeared to be teasing us as they surfaced always in unexpected places close to the ship but away from the eager cameras.
The afternoon brought a landing at Hannah Point and exploration of Walker Bay among the trusting and curious Gentoo and Chinstrap penguins, as well as nesting petrels, fur and elephant seals.
We see out the day with drinks, conversation and a birthday celebration in the bridge, overlooking the bright ice cliffs of Livingston Island and looking forward to the next adventure.
Blog Bark Europa 12 February 2012
Magic
12-02-2012 10:00
After three days of sailing on the Drake, making good speed without any help from the engine, we arrive at Barrientos Island in the early morning. Watches are suspended and everybody gets a good night sleep before our first landing. So close to the shore we can see and smell the penguins up on the beach.
Our first landing starts after breakfast, and we get all morning to wander round the Gentoo en Chinstrap colonies on the island. We see some adults and a lot of chicks. These are quite big now, changing their furry down for proper feathers, and getting ready to go to sea. One chick will not get that far though, as it gets grabbed by a Giant Petrel right before our eyes. Most of the group spend some time observing the behaviour of these small, tough animals.
We have a second landing on Barrientos in the afternoon, when we get to walk across to the other side of the island. This side is dominated by various types of seals, and we get to see Elephant, Weddell and Fur Seals. One or two of the group get a closer look at a Fur Seal than they may have wanted, as they are pursued by an animal charging at them.
No bright sunshine today, but we do get to see the sun a bit. It is a little foggy at times, but that only seems to add to the atmosphere on the island. In the distance we can see other Aitcho Islands, black rocks rising out of the sea, enveloped in fog. It makes for a magical picture.
Blog Bark Europa 10 February 2012
With full sails!
10-02-2012 10:00
It is a marvellous day, it started with a clear and cloudless night with a full moon and a sky filled with stars. The Southern Cross, Orion, Sirius and lots of other stars showed them self brightly.
Besides that we have a good sailing wind and we hoisted lots of sails and turned off the engine. I slept like a baby on the swell that moved the ship. At eight o clock we are ready for duty, meaning; doing lookout on the forecastle, or taking the wheel. It is really an adventure to make this crossing through these powerful seas.The waves are still of a good size but yesterday they were six meter high.
Besides the Albatrosses and Petrels we spotted Hourglass dolphins this morning. Also some people saw a Finn whale, regrettable not by me because we were attending a lecture about Penguins. Anyway we are quite busy. At four we are on duty again. The sun is shining. The wind is blowing and the showers are passing without hitting us.
Since we left the Beagle Channel we did not see any other ship and we are looking forward to spot our first Iceberg in a day or two!
Greetings
Blog Bark Europa 9 February 2012
So this is Drake Passage!
09-02-2012 10:00
The wind had become strong in the night, force 7. The heavy waves were caused by the Pacific winds from the West, combined with the one from the North - the one that blew us forward to Antarctica, on the sails, of which some were set. The night and day of the seasickness. Not many people escaped it.
Walking in the corridors, holding yourself firmly on the side rails, is as walking in a tight rope. If not careful, you were rocketed into the bench on the other side of the dining room.
To prevent your slice of bread to slide off your plate, the trick was to put first some butter on the plate, in order to fix the bread on it, then to walk to your place to prepare it.
I admire the kitchen crew, who manage to prepare and serve breakfast and dinner, while the soup could splash from the pan when one moment the ship made a heavy movement. I admire the crew, mostly young people, who set another sail in the middle of the storm. But now, at the end of the afternoon, the waves reduce a bit, it becomes clearer outside. How inclined, she, that is how the crew talks about the Europa, sometimes goes!
Outside it feels alright, being thrown up and down by the waves, with the albatrosses and petrels flying around.
Blog Bark Europa 8 February 2012
Leaving Ushuaia
08-02-2012 10:00
All new trainees have joined the ship yesterday afternoon and already had their first diner on board!
The ship is about to leave Ushuaia for the 3rd Antarctic expedition this season. Follow the ship on her journey to the South.
Blog Bark Europa 2 February 2012
Under an angle
02-02-2012 18:00
Drake, o Drake, thy reputation confirmed once more. A Passage with an identity crisis for sure. So many faces, no wonder very often the weather gets depressed. Yesterday our estimated time of arrival would have been February 10 if the engines would have failed and we would have been totally dependent on the wind.
During the initial 24 hours with very little wind we actually witnessed the Lake Drake phenomenon. It provided time to get accustomed to the oceans movements again. Within half a day we saw the wind shift to headwind. The one-engine assistance was upgraded to both engines. We lowered sails, set them again, Europa changed her course several times to keep wind in the sails. The wind increased to 30 plus knots. Waves built up and kept on trying to come aboard. Europa listed heavily at times. People coming on watch grinning at each other, having dressed after unsuccessful tries.
The listing also provided hilarious scenes at breakfast of people under various angles and food sliding off plates to the definitely lower side. You probably would not want to live your life under a 30 degrees angle, but its great fun trying.
We salute thee Drake with a respectful wow!
Blog Bark Europa 2 February
Passing Cape Horn
02-02-2012 10:00
This night our passage north across the Drake nears its end! We had big waves and for this sea not too much wind - max. 8Bft, but on the nose from NW, so it was mostly motorsailing, which was some relief for the few seasick.
At 18:30 we saw it finally thru rainy clouds: Cape Horn! Passing Cape Horn safely is one of the finest experiences in the life of most sailors. Passing Cape Horn thankfully in the companionship of a nice and competent crew returning fromAntarctica with a bunch of new experiences and memories is all most travellers can dream of.
Passing Cape Horn on board of this wonderful tall ship Bark Europa simply makes us happy. And happy we look forward to the last three days of our journey through Tierra de Fuego...
Blog Bark Europa 1 February 2012
The doctor and the whale
01-02-2012 10:00
Aage Karup Nielsen was a Danish doctor who in 1922, together with a colleague, signed on as a ship’s doctor on the Norwegian whaling fleet for the Antarctic. He wrote a book about it, illustrated with 50 autotypes, a predecessor of the modern day digital flood of photographs.
He describes preparations and start from three Norwegian towns (Larvik, Tonsberg, Sandefjord) that sponsored this 30 million crowns enterprise. The fleet consisted of 7 mother ship steamers (7000-10.000 tons) with each 3-4 whale hunting vessels aboard. Combined they were 1100 men. This fleet got 6 months to carry the loot from the South Shetlands area. The loot should consist of 4000 blue whales that would provide many tons of oil for European lamps and stoves.
Steamers need coal which was going to be taken in in Cardiff. The workers there went on strike after loading 50 tons of coal. Hastily by telegrams more expensive coal had to be ordered in Dakar and Rio de Janeiro. This meant a costly delay, but the author relishes in descriptions of the African Negro (whom he does not spare), and of the good life in Rio.
What does all this have to do with Bark Europa? I happen to be the ship’s doctor now, and I’m reading this book while on Deception Island, the primary base of operation of the Norwegian fleet. You can read how harpoons are fired and one of the pictures shows a harpoon exploding in a whale. The whale is dragged alongside the ship, or they plant a flag and insert a tube in the whale and inflate air to prevent it sinking, and then rush off to catch the next one. Later they will come and collect the whale. Floating alongside the ship the whale is skinned and the blubber is removed from the skin. Looking around here I realise what happened: all around I see remains of whales. Today we are dealing with whales in a quite different way: we look for whales too, but at a ‘whale-alarm’ we are all on deck armed with cameras that are just softly clicking.
Nielsens description of penguin villages could have also been written nowadays: there have been and are still very many, whereby I think there may be more digital Penguins than real penguins. The way Nielsen pictures the games they played with skuas wouldn’t fit Bark Europas behaviour: they would tie 2 pieces of blubber on either side of a piece of string and present that to the skuas. Shortlytwo skuas would fly through the air attached to one another by the string until one of them would let go of the blubber. Fun? Then it was anyway.
Up to now my medical knowledge is minimally called upon, may it stay that way. Nielsen does not report great dramas either, although he does mention the graveyard on Deception Island where many men lie who met with an accident. Now the burial ground only shows two crosses and one coffin.
He stresses the necessity of a doctor by pointing at the experiences that the ships captains passed onwhen they had to deal with such matters. For the sake of simplicity all medication had been stowed away in numbered pots, the names were too complicated for this captain. For example pot no. 1 was for nausea, no.2 for headache and so on. One day he needed no.11, but it was empty. Some creativity should be attributed to his captain: he gave his patient 4 and 7, which makes 11 doesn’t it?
To be perfectly clear: those were different times, I really don’t suppose our captain Klaas Gaastra would really do the same. All the crew are very professional, hospitable, hardworking and radiant with enthusiasm.
Having read Nielsens stories I’m glad I sail with Bark Europa on this trip in 2012 and not 90 years earlier when she was still a lightship. Although, it might have been interesting to see all the activity, the ships, the people, and maybe smell the stench for a bit. On the other hand I wouldn’t care to see all these dead whales floating in red waters. I rather see them blow.
News
Whales and sharks
01:25UTC 22-5-2013
Today we had the company of 2 Minke whales, a smaller whale seen around the world. At first we just saw their water fountain, but after a while they started flapping their tails and jumping half out of the water! It was amazing to see. Everybody was on deck, clapping and cheering! Just before that we had done a MOB exercise and while we were explaining how it was going to work, we saw a small fin, just 20meters beside the ship!
Today, due to lack off wind, we have not been sailing, we tried last night, but drifted backwards with the current. Yesterday during the day we had some good wind, but on the nose, so we tacked our way up. It was good practise for the cadets, steering, changing running backstays and some sheet handling.
Right now the vessels are close together, during the day we might throw anchor before entering Durban.